Eco-textile Glossary - Recently Updated Pages

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anniesherburne — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 04:43:44 CDT

Indigo

The natural dye which is used to achieve blue. The dyebath has an agent added to remove the oxygen. this can be lye (caustic soda) or fermented urine. Yeast is an environmentally friendly, but unreliable method of removing oxygen too. The dye is dissolved, the fabric is added to the greeny yellow water and boiled. When removed the fabric turns blue as the dyestuff is affected by oxygen. Natural fibres with hollow cores are best for this as the dye is held inside the fibre. Indigo does contain mutegens which deplete genetic diversity if grown in a monoculture. Growing it in millions of acres to satisfy the demand for blue jeans can prevent use of that land for food production.
Master dyer Debbie Crum suggests this explanation: The indigotin (blue pigment) is dissolved in the alkaline solution (lye) and thiourea dioxide or sodium hydrosulphite is added to reduce the oxygen. These are both chemicals that are poisonous. thiourea is less so, but has a reasonable probability of being carcenegenic.

Indigen

The active ingredient in indigo dye, found in various plants including woad, which is indigenous to the british isles.

Industrial Symbiosis

Companies from all business sectors improve cross industry resource efficiency
through the commercial trade of materials, energy and water and by sharing
assets, logistics and expertise. It engages traditionally separate industries and
other organisations in a collective approach to competitive advantage involving
physical exchange of materials, energy, water and/or by-products together with the shared use of assets, logistics and expertise. www.nisp.org.uk
Information / inspiration web based eco-tool for designers.

www.informationinspiration.org.uk

Ingeo

( www.ingeofibers.com) Polylactic Acid (PLA) made from lactic acid made from dextrose by fermentation. Dextrose is made from starch, starch is made from carbondioxide and water. The Sustainable source is corn, can also be sugar beet.
It is a fast growing annual crop. Makes rigid plastic or clear shrink wrap for all forms of packaging. Makes silk or linen type fabrics, usable for fashion and sportswear and Underwear. It wicks (directs) perspiration away from the body and dries quickly.

Nonwovens make geo-textiles and hygiene products, including nappies. Also fibre filling, carpet yarns and other household and industrial fabrics. All fully and easily biodegradable and can be recycled if required. In discussion with Dr R Blackburn- Corn production in the US is GM. Ingeo doesn’t have to be GGM, but there is currently (2007) an 8% glut of corn so current Ingeo production is from industrial waste. Crops could be grown in Europe or Asia. There is little waste, the stems can be used for sugar or energy , making them into biofuels. Current factories being built to process ingeo also use wind and hydrothermals to stabilise and sustain energy and over time will even sequester CO2 from the atmosphere.

Innovative technologies

Including seamless garments which are stitch free welded seams using ultrasonic heating, high frequency radiation or bonded adhesive films. Reductions in waste, energy, time, quality checks and noise, but lose of jobs.

Computer Aided Design which enables seamless circular knitting allows smaller
batches, cheaper and more flexible production. (well dressed? p 33) Designs can be digitally communicated to multiple locations according to demand.

Mass customisation is also possible with CAD. 3D simulations created by scanning individual customers create a 2D pattern to make a ‘bespoke’ garment.

Insecticides

There are 2 main groups: Chlorinated hydrocarbons and organic phosphorus. There are also systemic insecticides (Carson R Silent spring p 46. pub penguin reprint 1972)

Integrated Pest management

Strategies reduce, but do not eradicate the reliance on pesticides. IPM emphasises the growth of healthy crops and encourages natural pest control systems. Actions commonly considered include; encouraging wild bird species which act as predators to the cotton pest populations, rotation of crops with wheat, pulses and legumes which don't encourage the cotton pests, and break up thier lifecyle. Cultivating refuge crops which give a habitat to beneficial animal species, taking local ecology into account when selecting cotton varieties, planting border crops such as sorghum, and maize around cotton fields as a natural barrier and to mask smells of cotton crops, co-planting with soy and castor to encourage beneficial species into the fields, planting trap crops around the field such as sunflowers and marigold to attract the cotton pests away from the crop, Tolerating crop damage while beneficial species establish themselves, using chemical pheremones to discourage cotton pests, only using narrow spectrum pesticides which do not harm the good species. (The deadly chemicals in cotton, PAN UK website) can’t encourage.

Intelligent design

Total awareness of inputs and outputs of products, services and systems, responsive to new information. Putting that new information into practise. ( www.greenblue.org )

Intelligent Products System

Authored by Michael Braungart and Justus Engelfried in 1993. This is the precursor to much of Braungarts more recent work, including Cradle to Cradle. This is a system for transforming the current expensive global waste management regime to an economically and environmentally sustainable system of intelligent products with 3 categories, consumable with no harm accruing from subsequent disposal and complete biodegradability, product of service and unmarketable

An "Intelligent Products System" develops consumption and service products which encourage elimination of waste, and maximise use of recyclable and biodegradable materials. One effect of the Intelligent Products System is that responsibility along with financial incentives for reduction and maintenance of dangerous waste are transferred from the end user to the producer, but also provide the producer with a reasonable economic framework to work with. Communities are left only with responsibility for biodegradable Consumption products. This division of responsibilities helps to solve the current intractable problem of mixing industrial and biodegradable wastes, which creates much of the skyrocketing costs for waste management today.

< www.epea.com/cradle_methodology > 7.5.07 [online]

Interface

Company which operates takeback and recycles its contract nylon and polyester carpet tiles.

IMO (Institute for Market Ecology)

IMO is the most reliable world-wide ecological inspection and certification organisation for textiles. It began in 1992. Dealing with the whole textile chain: raw material, yarn production, fabric production, confection/garment
manufacturing. Some of the most important organic textile standard organisations (such as IVN, OTA, Soil Association and Demeter) value the high quality of IMO textile auditing and have approved IMO as inspection (and certification) body for their schemes. ( www.imo.ch)

ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation)

Producers can apply to the ISO for certification that their product has achieved an acceptable standard. They receive an ISO number. Future areas that will be included in the standards are the environment, service, security and management. < www.iso.ch > 7.5.07

[online]

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anniesherburne — Tue, 23 Jun 2009 04:40:40 CDT

Tagua

Vegetable ivory, From nuts grown in Ecuador. Used for buttons, fastenings, and beads in place of ivory. < www.oneworldprojects.com > 5.5.07 [online]

Take back

Where a manufacturer has responsibility for products which are returned at the end of life. This should lead to systematic product recycling. Products could be products of service.

Tanning

The process which stops animal skins from rotting. Can be a vegetable or mineral process. Chromium compounds are often used in dyes which is toxic. Chromium is used in mineral tanning because it is faster than vegetable tanning. Vegetable tanning uses barks such as oak, tanoak, hemlock, etc. (encarta, 2003) Terra Plana use an eco alternative called White Line tanning.

Technical metabolism

(www.greenblue.org) human systems that perpetually reuse valuable synthetics and minerals materials in closed loops, modelled on natures systems.

Technical nutrients

(cradle to cradle)

Materials which could and should circulate infinitely as pure and valuable materials within closed-loop industrial cycles, rather than being “re-cycled” into low-grade materials and uses. Often these materials are non-renewables. If non-renewables are mixed with other materials they become contaminated and cannot easily be reclaimed. Because they are usually valuable, irreplaceable and sometimes toxic (but essential for their purpose) new respect for their use is essential in the new industrial revolution. Their use needs to be within the context of design for disassembly, where they will be up-cycled . In short: a product which can be broken down and circulated infinitely in industrial cycles, made and remade.

Textile Environmental Design (TED)

Set up in 1996 by Beccy Early, to develope research into issues relating to
ecological textile textile and fashion lifecycles.

Teflon finish

A chemical that is bonded to fibres to make clothes weatherproof, windproof and able to resist stains. It was originally used for non stick frying pans.

Textile Environmental Network (TEN)

Set up by Dr Jo Heeley in 1883 to discuss ecological textile issues. Academic chat room for debate at jiscmail.com. Archives still intact and interesting.

Tencel

Nano-technology makes this man-made cellulose fibre as fine as silk, as strong as polyester, as easy to care for as acrylic, cool and pleasant like linen, as warm as wool , whilst the regular structure of the hydrophilic nano-fibrils absorb 50% more moisture than cotton.’(www.lenzing.com) quote from a customer) Tencel is biodegradable. It comes from wood pulp which is more slow growing that its new rival, Ingeo. Also known as Lyocell.

Thiourea dioxide (spectralite)
Used to make an indigo dye vat. According to the national toxicology programme 11th report it can be reasonable be expected to be a carcenegen ammong humans. It replaces the more poinsonous alternative hydro sulphate

Three dimensional knitting

Requires no seams, economic to make and easy to recycle becuase there is no contamination from other materials (eg sewing thread) Lends itself to design for dissassembly. Which means it can be easily designed as a product of service

Toxic

Poisonous to life forms and to ecosystems which support life (as)

Trade-offs

Mitigating circumstances balance harmful effects if they enable good effects elsewhere. For example ‘carbon trading’

Transfer printing

To transfer an image onto textiles using paper and ink. (ridgewell)

Transition

The period in which a farmer may be developing and changing over all practises to organic. The food or materials being produced may still be considered to have residues of pesticides, herbicides an treatments from pre-organic status, but in quantifiably less amounts according to how far the farm is through transition towards full organic status.

Transitional strategies

Realistic steps taken from an informed perspective which are “less bad” (CC) Sensible systems based on an intellegent understanding of the unacceptable chains of production, processing, use and disposal of products. The use of existing market forces and and infrastructure to implement gradual change towards best practises. The mixing of old and new practise to enable the practical marketing of any given product to continue, and in so doing, fund the renovation of the processes involved in its production, use and disposal. Gradual movement towards the new industrial revolution. (as)

Treetap

An alternative leather, vegetal leather, couro vegetal or Treetap and it comes from rubber trees in the Amazon. Indigenous tree trappers ‘milk‘ wild plants in the jungle. The sap from these Hevea brasiliensis is a natural latex and after being
sustainably harvested (trees are rotated every two years) it is filtered and layered onto a cotton backing. This is smoke cured, half a dozen times or so, and sun dried to vulcanise or ‘set’ the latex. The resulting Treetap can be used to make shoulder bags, day packs, briefcases, purses and even footwear. Developed from a traditional handicraft, the Treetap program ensures native peoples can afford to keep living in their rainforest, without needing to sell chunks to the voracious chain-sawers .

< www.treehugger.com/files/2005/02/treetap > 7.5.07 [online]

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anniesherburne — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 06:03:27 CDT

Carbohydrate Economy
New technologies, new laws and an increasingly aware public are ushering in a new materials base for the 21st century - plant matter. Carbohydrates, the building blocks of plant matter, can be converted into chemicals, energy, textiles, building materials, paper, and many other industrial products. We call this new materials base a "carbohydrate economy." A carbohydrate economy reduces pollution, builds stronger rural communities, and supports a rooted farmer-owned manufacturing sector. (the carbohydrateeconomy.org. 16.6.09)

Carbon atoms

The compostition of methane explains how Carbon atoms are manipulated to carry other atoms as compounds used for pesiticides and insecticides. Because living organisms are made from carbon, this element acts as an efficient carrier to take poisons into living tissues. This is the heart of the threat to life itself. What we do to crops we are doing to ourselves indIrectly as well. Even in small doses the poisons accumalate in fat cells and in the liver.

Chemists discovered how to detach a hydrogen atom from the compound or methane which has a central connecting carbon molecule. this produces methyl chloride. Taking away 3 hydrogen atoms and substituing chlorine gives chloroform, etc. The extremly poinsonous pesticide DDT is a chlorinated hydrocarbon, another is Chlordane. The most violently poinsonous hydrocarbons are chloinated napthalenes include dieldrin, aldrin and endrin.

Residues from hydrocarbons not only remain on crops, but also in the soil.

Carbon dioxide

Colourless gas, breathed out. Plants convert carbon dioxide to oxygen during a process called photosynthesis, In excess amounts it is a Greenhouse gas, a by-product of the internal combustion engine and of burning of fossil fuels.

Carbon neutral

Energy use without expenditure of carbon. Carbon offsetting suggests that a project is carbon neutral, but environmentalists do not all agree with this.

Carbon tax

Proposal to tax individuals, corporations, countries for their carbon generating activities.

Carbon offset

An idea to counterbalance the production of co2 by doing something to reduce the equal amount of co2 somewhere else in the world. The idea is to reduce net greenhouse gas emissions to combat global warming.

Carbon offsets can be purchased by individuals from a variety of commercial and non-commercial organisations, but there is no standardisation, or body to oversee or judge integrity or efficacy. (www.answers.com)

Carbon Trading

A system of trading of permits to emit carbon dioxide between countries, enabling gas guzzlers to meet their obligations under the terms of the Kyoto protocol. to reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Carcinogen

Cancer causing substance.

Catalase

Enzyme to reduce hydrogen peroxide to water and oxygen. Also acts as a bio-scourer. Also generates oxygen from peroxide to convert latex into foam rubber

Caustic soda

Used in cleaning materials. Also required to separate lignin from cellulose fibres.
Alkaline < wikipedia.org> 5.5.07 [online] Also known as lye, and sodium hydroxide, it is used as a fixative in indigo dye vats to remove the oxygen from the water.

<www.earthguild.com> 5.5.07 [online]

Cellulase

An enzyme produced by fungi, and is used for bio-polishing, in laundry products
as a biological fabric conditioner, and in the recent development of alternative
energy sources where it is used in the fermentation of biomass into biofuels.

Cellulose acetate

A biopolymer, Used for transparent, translucent and opaque objects. It is a kind of bio-plastic. It is biodegradable in the appropriate conditions.

Cellulosic fibres

Fibres from plants including cotton, ramie, sisal, hemp (www.ridgewell.com) The molecules are glucose. (Technotextiles) These plants are fast growing, often soft
woods such as eucalyptus which is mature for use in 7 years. they are also co2
neutral at the raw material stage. (KF)

Can be dyed with reactive dyes. In an alkaline bath a chemical bond is formed.
Saline effluent kills aquatic life, increases algae, reduces O2 in water. Energy and water use high. (http://www.apparelsearch.com/)

Certification

As standards are set, certification enables customers to make informed choices. Current standards are set by organisations such as the soil association (organic food, but more recently, wool) The Global Eco labelling Network gives access to the myriad of individual eco-labelling systems where current standards are being independently assessed and applied internationally.

Chemicals (substitution of)

see substitution

Chlorinated hydrocarbon insecticides

An example is DDT, a pesticide. see carbon atoms

Chloroflourocarbons (CFC’s)

Stable, artificial chemical compounds containing carbon, fluorine, and sometimes hydrogen, used to cool refrigerators and air conditioners. They deplete the stratospheric ozone layer which protects the earth and its inhabitants from excessive ultraviolet radiation. They contribute to global warming. and are a greenhouse gas. (an)

Chromium

Heavy metal used in dyes and in tanning leather, its use is poisonous and unacceptable.

Clay dyed clothes

Clay dyeing processes eliminate artificially produced chemical dyestuffs, are natural, biodegradable and require no salt. Our Keyna V low-impact dyes also meet the strict guidelines of the Organic Trade Association Fiber standards. In other words, they are a better choice for you and our planet.

As a comparison, conventionally produced dyes, and even more frequently the by-products of producing these dyes, are toxic. Additionally, many conventional processes use amazingly large quantities of kitchen salt. Though tasty in our food, salt causes irreversible harm to the ecosystems in our rivers, lakes, and underground water sources when released from a commercial dye house. In many cases, conventional dyeing processes have been expelled from the USA. (to foreign countries) We have revived an ancient dyeing process that combines clays of different colors with natural fibers such as hemp, linen, cotton, and organic cotton. Essentially thick red clay is put into a watery solution and kneaded through the knit or weave. The iron oxides in the clay act like a dye, staining the fabric, later to be 'set' in a drying process. Different coloured clays can be used to obtain various shades. < www.earthcreations.net >

Climate change

Any change in global temperatures and precipitation over time, due to natural variability or to human activity. (www.answers.com) Any significant change from one state to another (an)

Climatex

Produced by Rohner textil AG, the Climatex products are leaders in ecological textiles. They have been advised by Michael Braungart, co-writer of Cradle to Cradle, and have developed a range of dyes with minimal environmental impact.
Large efforts were made to test dye chemicals for ecological safety. Although a mere 16 out of 1600 available dye chemicals lived up to the rigid specs, almost all colour variations are possible, except black. The Ramie based fabric is produced in a closed loop factory system, where the water which comes into the factory is actually less clean than the water that exits the factory. Climatex fabrics are all completely biodegradable.( < www.climatex.com > [online] )

Closed loop

This is where a process, often involving technical nutrients and sometimes involving the necessary use of toxins, is contained, or ‘closed’. Chemicals are reclaimed, re-used, or maintained in their pure form and not released into the environment, either through the air or in water or in other forms of waste, in order to be reused.

It is a central concept within cradle to cradle, implying reuse and reuse and reuse, without loss of integrity of the material. (Defra) call it the ideal production arrangement where the product of one process is the raw material for another

Clothing

£25 BILLION worth of clothes are imported into the UK every year. Much comes from countries where labour laws are non-existent or not enforced. In China there are no core labour rights such as collective bargaining. (Ethical consumer June/ july 2002 p 12) Conversely (on radio 4 12.1.06) in an interview with John Snow, the US treasury secretary, the internal economy in the states is growing because of the consumer boom fired by cheap imports from China. In an interview with a textile worker:

“I couldn’t take a rest, was prohibited from going to the toilet and my supervisor would have a go at me if I sat down for a minute during a 10 hour shift spent mostly standing. Reaching production targets was everything for the company. If
workers didn’t reach thier target, they were threatened with dismissal or had to work overtime without pay... Low wages meant that the only way to live ‘normally’ was through overtime ( Emilia Yanti, Garment workers union organiser and
gender programme officer, Indonesia) (source: fashioning an ethical industry, a labour behind the label project leaflet)

Closed systems

Like closed loop systems, but where technical nutrients, usually dyes and chemicals are contained and then disposed of.

Companion Planting

See co-planting

Cogeneration
A system of generating both heat and power (electricity) simultaneously. Since energy is the chief environmental issue, better or alternative forms can substantially alleviate or lessen environmental impacts of production and phases of use (eg laundering). Cogeneration is a method for achieving more from the same, but is not necessarily an alternative energy source. It is transitional if it continues to use oil or other non-renewable fuels. Use of biofuel as the energy source is more sustainable because it is an alternative energy source.

Co-planting

co planting is where different plants are planted together with benefits to both. Also known as companion planting, one plant may act a a natural pesticide or herbicide for the other.

Coconut

See Coir

Coir

Coconut fibre. The husk beneath the hard shell is retted then spun. Very strong,
used for flooring. The whole tree/plant is useful, economic and versitile.

Colour cotton

The naturally colour of cotton including brown, green, biege. See Fox fibre

Compost

Naturally decomposed materials rich in mineral sources, for use as a soil conditioner, mulch, resurfacing material or landfill cover. (AN)

Compostable

Materials which can break down through the action of microbes. Biodegradable.

Commerce

Day to day, instant exchange of value.

Comparative Risk Analysis

Tool to compare and rank environmental problems and issues, risk to health or quality of life. This system produces ranked risks.(an)

Composite

A combination of materials which can create improved performance (technotextiles)
e.g. poly-cotton. easy no iron, drip dry, hard wearing.

Computer Aided Design and manufacture (CAD) (CAM)

Can be used to send digital patterns to local production units, saving transport
costs, economic cutting, virtual avatars can test out designs, scanning techniques make patterns which fit perfectly available to a mass market. (well dressed? p 32)

Conservation

Preservation and renewal of human and natural resources. (answers)

Contaminant

Any Physical, chemical, biological or radiological substance or matter that has adversely effected the air, water, soil, or other medium. (an)

In Cradle to Cradle systems, this is where a technical nutrient (aka non-renewable) is mixed which prevents proper recycling. The resulting combination can only be downcycled, so end up being wasted.

Contamination

Introduction into air, water or soil of micro-organisms chemicals, toxic substances wastes or waste water in a concentration that makes the medium unfit for its next intended use. (an)

Or introduction of any substance into another which renders that medium unfit for purpose.

Co-products

Materials that are intentionally or unintentionally made when producing another product. (an)

Corporate Social Responsibility CSR

(AFL, wik and AS) Recognition and implementation of environmental and social strategy within companies. Sometimes manifests as a budget to support those working with sympathetic issues, such as social enterprises or environmental groups and projects.

Cotton, mass production

Provides nearly 50% of global fibre needs, but uses 25% of all insecticides applied to agricultural crops and 11% of all pesticides on 2.5% of the worlds cropped area, creating serious impacts on human and environmental health ( moral fibre, a beginners guide to the UK market pub: pesticide action network UK p5)

In mechanical picking, 2/3rds of the yield is dirt, seeds and plant residue (much
less if hand picked) water consumption is massive, diverting water from other uses, which as irrigation rather than drinking quality contains soluble salts which reduce soil fertility, loss of biodiversity, water pollution, adverse changes in the
water balance, including eutrophication which deoxygenates the water so it cannot support animal life. Pesticides in developing countries include pyrethoids and organophosphates which are nerve poisons (Kate Fletcher quotes Myers 1999) the pesticides used account for 50% of the cost of world cotton production.

The depletion of the Aral sea has been caused by cotton production in Russia.

Cotton, Organic

Grown without pesticides and herbicides, using natural predators, and co-planting with other plants to achieve symbiotic relationships between plants, insects and replenishments of nutrients into the soil. less water use. Use of colour cotton where colour is inherent in the cotton ball. Picking done carefully by hand. Safe for workers, the environment and the surrounding towns and wildlife. Problematic though as it would not be possible to supply enough organic cotton to satisfy world wide demand for the crop, even if it were to be all grown organically.

Cost benefit Analysis

An economic method for assessing the financial costs involved in relation to the expected benefit. (an) If one replaced financial cost with environmental cost it could become a model for environmental benefit analysis. (as)

Cradle to Cradle

A system where waste equals food, where every material is used and reused, mimicking the system of nature. Also the name of the visionary book by William McDonough & Michael Braungart. Much of the terminology, and many of the concepts in this directory originate from this book.

Cradle to Grave

(greenblue.org) Linear system often called ‘take, make, waste” where materials are manufactured, used briefly, then discarded.

Crude products

All products which are attractive, affordable, meet regulations, perform well, fit into the marketplace but which are NOT designed for human and ecological health.

Cupro

Regenerated cellulose fibre made by the cuprammonium process. Uses ammonia added to copper to dissolve the cellulose. If there is efficient recycling of the copper from the effluent, it is less harmful than viscose because there are no noxious gases formed.

Customisable

(AFL) where a product can be easily altered to a customers specification. (A great example of this in action is Wardrobe Surgery) Redesign define customisation as personalisation, and flag up the additional, emotional connection between the owner and the object, calling this strategy ‘re-creation’

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anniesherburne — Fri, 20 Jun 2008 11:45:33 CDT

Labelling

This is essential to enable customers to make informed choices. It also enables the easy identification of components in products to enable recycling. Currently there are no standards labels but among the best are Oeko100, SKAL, Swan, Euro flower and the soil association.

Landfill

Also known as a dump in USA or a tip in the UK, is a site for the disposal of waste materials by burial and is the oldest form of waste treatment. Historically, landfills have been one of the most common methods of organised waste management (along with incineration) and remain so in many places around the world. (wik)

Landfill Directive

(Defra) European legislation to reduce possible negative environmental effects from landfilling of waste by introducing uniform standards throughout the EU, in particular by setting targets for the reduction in the amount of biodegradable municipal waste sent to landfill”.

Landfill gas

Municipal solid waste contains significant portions of organic materials that produce a variety of gaseous products when dumped, compacted, and covered in landfills. Anaerobic bacteria thrives in the oxygen-free environment, resulting in the decomposition of the organic materials and the production of primarily carbon dioxide and methane. Landfill gas consists of 50-60% methane and 35-40% carbon dioxide (www.energ.co.uk)

Latex

Liquid rubber. Used for backing carpets.

Laundery

Laundering textiles and clothes 80% of the environmental impact of textiles occurs in laundering. This includes the energy the water usage and the production, use and disposal of the detergents themselves, which include toxic additives such as optical brighteners, (kate Fletcher) (www.seventhgen.com )

Leasing

See product of service

Leather

Apart from ethics of animal treatment, leather is a biodegradable by-product of the meat industry. It would be wasteful not to use it. Currently processing usually uses Chromium which is a heavy metal, is carcenegenic, and leeches into the soil.

Leather and suede dyes

Leather dying usually involves the use of spirit or alcohol based dyes where alcohol quickly gets absorbed into moistened leather, carrying the pigment deep into the surface. Analine is also used, which is an ingredient in dyes, although colourless itself.**

HELP needed here.

Leather alternatives.

Charmone shoes use high-quality Italian microfibres that are constructed exactly like leather, making them breathable, lightweight and colourfast. Not to mention water-resistant! <www.charmoneshoes.com> 7.5.07 [online] This is a vegetarian rather than environmental choice, because microfibres are made from nonrenewables. If they are part of a closed loop recycling lifecycle, then their use would be environmentally acceptable. Another example of a more eco friendly leather alternative is the company Ecoganik who use leather look fabric made from PET.

Lenzing

Large development and manufacture of manmade fibres and fabrics. Including the following brand names, Viscose, Tenneco, lyocell.

Life cycle assessment

Looks at everything that goes into making a product, materials, processes, energy use and the effects of the product during use, and then its ‘end-of-life’... (ideally at this point there would be up-cycling)

Lifetimes

An investigation by Dr Kate Fletcher of fast and slow fashion.

Linear System

Singular use of materials, which are manufactured, used and then thrown away.

Linen

A bast fabric and thread that is made from Flax. The seeds make linseed oil which has many uses including the hardwearing, stylish and eco friendly material linoleum. the seeds arre suitable for cattle feed and used in health foods, the bark makes chipboard.

Lipase

Used in laundry products to remove fat and oil stains.

Localisation

Local production to create jobs and prevent excess transportation. Appropriate use of local materials and resources (e.g. as with some cotton production, not using water to grow crops at the expense of food production or salination of water courses) Localisation also maintains and develops skills. See bioregionalism

Lycra

Fabric made by dupont, from a synthetic rubber, elastic, makes
stretchy fabrics. (technotextiles) Uses CFC’s in production, which deplete the
ozone layer.

Lye

Also known as Caustic soda and sodium hydroxide

Lyocell

Regenerated cellulose fibre made from wood pulp which produces fabric with a soft drape. (ridgewell) obtained by an organic solvent spinning process (www.technical-textiles.net) The solvent spinning technique is both simpler and more environmentally sound, since it uses a non-toxic solvent chemical that is recycled in the manufacturing process. (www.science.enotes.com) Is biodegradable. Also Known as Tencel.

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anniesherburne — Tue, 05 Feb 2008 04:52:25 CST

Factor 10

The quantity of productivity by which the west has to increase the use of non-renewable resources in order to approach ecological sustainability. (currently 30 tonnes of non renewable resourcesare used for every 1 ton of goods. The resulting dematerialisation will dampen the demand for energy by 80%, whiich will really deal with decarbonisation of the atmosphere. <www.factor10-institute.org>

Fair-trade

Products from producers who have been paid a fair price and whose working and often living conditions can therefore improve. Labelling and assurance is recognised and supported by customers. This leads to sustainable communities and sustainable trade chains and is usually associated with many other aspects of environmental improvement at local levels.

Farming methods

See co-planting, companion planting, bio-dynamic farming
organic cotton, soil association, PAN uk

Fashioning an ethical industry

Organisation to change unethical employment practises in the fashion industry. £25 BILLION worth of clothes are imported into the UK every year. Much comes from countries where labour laws are non-existent or not enforced. In China there are no core labour rights such as collective bargaining. (Ethical consumer June/ july 2002 p 12) Conversely (on radio 4 12.1.06) in an interview with John Snow, the US treasury secretary, the internal economy in the states is growing because of the consumer boom fired by cheap imports from China.

In an interview with a textile worker:

“I couldn’t take a rest, was prohibited from going to the toilet and my supervisor would have a go at me if I sat down for a minute during a 10 hour shift spent mostly standing. Reaching production targets was everything for the company. If
workers didn’t reach thier target, they were threatened with dismissal or had to work overtime without pay... Low wages meant that the only way to live ‘normally’ was through overtime ( Emilia Yanti, Garment workers union organiser and
gender programme officer, Indonesia) (source: fashioning an ethical industry, a labour behind the label project leaflet)

Fast Fashion

Customers expect more styles and turnover. Seamless production technologies
enable ‘just-in-time systems. (well dressed, p 33)

Felt

There are 2 kinds of felt, wet felt, where the fibres have been stimulated by friction and lubricated by water and have made thousands of ‘tacking stitches’ amongst themselves because of unidirectional scales on each fibre which cause
them to move in a single direction. The kinks in the fibres make them turn or corkscrew. the resulting fabric is matted together. If contained in a specific form (ie between two taut linen sheets) the resulting fabric will be a sheet. Needle felt
is where barbed needles force small groups of fibres through the body of a sheet of carded fibres until a sheet of ‘felt’ is made. The process is said to be the oldest form of textiles known to man (other then the creation of a thread itself, made by rolling and twisting fibres along a thigh) properties of felt enable it to be made into a breathing fabric for use as tents, or garments like the shepheRSA, ‘kepenek’. It can be produced industrially and be unenvironmental, or be produced as basic, life saving eco friendly fabric.

Fermentation

Corn starch and sugar beet are bacterially fermented to create the polymer from which Ingeo is spun, as opposed to regenerated cellulosics which are chemically polymerised.

Filament

Continuos fibre, eg silk or synthetic, gives drape and smoothness (technotextiles).

Filling

“Feathers and down are the most environmentaly sound fillings for duvets as these are not treated with any chemicals durring the preliminary cleaning” polyurethane foam is harmful to the health and the environment. Alternatives for upholstery include organic cotton batting or blends of fibres including wool, sisal and coconut fibre. (wilhide (elizabeth) Eco, the essential sourcebook for environmentally friendly design and decoration.2002 quadrille publishing ltd) p 155 see also kapok.

Finishing

Finishes can be applied to fabrics which can include size, which will wash out, or chemicals which do waterproofing, mothproofing, fire retardency.

5ways

An investigation by Dr Kate Fletcher and Becky Earley into different strategies of design, production, use and disposal of fashion items.

Flax

A plant which yields bast fibre from which linen is made.

Fleece (PET)

Fleece is the name for a high performance sportswear garment which is light
weight and is particularly warm. This is a garment which is often made from
recycled PET.

Fleece (Sheep)

Sheep are shorn at least once a year. the resulting body of fibre is known as a
fleece.

Flokati

Imitation woven fur rug. Dating from the shepherds of C5th century Greece.

Free Radicals

An atom or group of atoms that has at least one unpaired electron and is therefore unstable and highly reactive. In animal tissues, free radicals can damage cells and are believed to accelerate the progression of cancer, cardiovascular disease and age related diseases.

Freesharing

(wik) The FreeSharing Network is an international regiving/reuse network designed to redistribute unwanted usable items by making them available for free via a network of locally managed internet mailing lists.

Fossil Fuel

A Technical nutrient. A non renewable resource. A complex material capable of
much more sophisticated than being burned.

Foxfiber

Developed by Sally Fox, a spinner and chemist form the USA. Organic coloured cotton was selectively bred by sally to achieve longest staple and deepest naturally occurring colour. Known as colorganic. Native american cotton was not white.

Fungicide

Chemical application which destroys fungus.

E

anniesherburne — Sun, 20 Jan 2008 10:28:11 CST

Eco-efficiency

Doing more with less. (rio 1992 earth summit)

Eco-design (Defra)

“The design of products, systems and environments that are ecologically sound”

Eco Labels

There are many eco labels, each with different independent standards applied.
Kalinag is an essential tool to inform and empower customers so that the market forces ecological change for the better. Good examples are Oeko100, swan, soil association, and Euro Flower.

Eco-lease

The system by which “a product of service’ can be used. Products, services and materials are leased, not sold.

Ecological

‘Design that makes use of of resources that come from the earth in such a way that they can be returned to the earth without causing harm, in a cycle that echoes the natural systems of living things” (Elizabeth Wilhide ‘Eco’ 2002 pub: Quadrille)

Eco-effectiveness

‘Cradle to Cradle Designs strategy for intelligent and healthy materials use, designing human industry that is safe, profitable, and regenerative, producing economic, ecological and social value’ (www.greenblue.org / key concepts)

Ecological Footprint

(AFL) A measure of resource use, enabling comparison between nations. Also refers to a measure of the impact of a given product.

Ecological Intelligence

‘The elegant intelligence of natural systems and processes (such as nutrient cycling, interdependence, celebration of diversity, solar power use, regeneration etc)’

(www.greenblue.org/ key concepts)

Ecology

The relations of organisms to one another and to thier physical surroundings www.askoxford.com

Eco Materials

(AFL) Materials with minimum environmental impact and maximum performance. Biological nutrients and technical nutrients are the 2 types of materials.

(AS) They must also be produced, used and have end of life treatments which are environmentally sound.

Ecosystem

An ecological community, existing within its environment, functioning as a unit. (answers)

Eco Wheel

(AFL) A method to assist in making environmental improvements to existing products.

1) Selection of low impact materials. 2) Reduction of materials usage. 3) Optimisation of production techniques. 4) optimisation of distribution system. 5) Reduction of impact in usage. 6) Optimisation of initial lifetime. 7) Optimisation of end of life system. 8) New concept development.

Effluent

Run-off of by-products of a process, suspended in waste water.

Embodied Energy

The amount of energy taken to produce a given product is considered to be ‘embedded’ within that product. It is a way of understanding how to analyse the environmental impact of the product, and not a description of how much heat will emanate if it is burned!

Emissions

Airborne by products of burning, heating and other transformations within the manufacturing process.

Emotionally durable design

Book by Jonathan Chapman in which he describes our relationship and connections with objects. Paralleled in an almost anthropomorphic manner, we ‘fall out of Love’ with objects.

Before they are obsolete, they are emotionally worn out, and have to be disposed of to make way for the new Loves and emotional security we crave. He calls on designers to consider this when designing for a more emotionally durable future.

End of Life

A belief that products and materials have a finite use. This is the point where old patterns of thought believe that they have to be disposed of. (for opposite pattern of thought see ‘waste equals food’)

End-of-pipe solutions

Manufacturing without a care for processes involved when one has to try to clean up the mess at the end of the process.

Environmental Footprint

(as) A concept which attempts to measure the impact of a persons life and lifestyle on the environment. Visualised as a light footprint or a heavy mark.

Environmentally Friendly

Loose term to describe an attitude and intention to care for the environment, can imply non-invasive, non polluting procedures and processes(AS).

Energy

Energy is of course the means by which things can be produced. Energy production which uses renewable sources is preferable to that which uses polluting non renewable sources. Many issues of environmentally friendly design would be of considerably less concern is transportation and production was achieved through the use of biodiesel, solar, wind or hydro power.

Enzymes

Can be used as natural substitution for some chemical processes. EG Natural
fabrics are whitened using Hydrogen Peroxide. Lots of water and a reducing agent such as X are required to prevent adverse effects on subsequent dying caused by bleach residue. Catalase decomposes hydrogen peroxide to water and oxygen. No energy, no overdosing, no waste in the water, water saving. (www.p2pays.org)

Enzyme Inhibitors

Used as herbicides and pesticides.

Ethical

Right and wrong ways to do things, usually applied to an expectation that people and animals have not been treated badly in the production and use of any given items or services. (AS)

Ethical Fashion Forum

Organisation to campaign for workers rights, and fair trade globally.

Eutrophication

Eutrophication is a process whereby water bodies, such as lakes, estuaries, or slow-moving streams receive excess nutrients that stimulate excessive plant growth (algae, periphyton attached algae, and nuisance plants weeds). This enhanced plant growth, often called an algal bloom, reduces dissolved oxygen in the water when dead plant material decomposes and can cause other organisms to die. Nutrients can come from many sources, such as fertilizers applied to agricultural fields, golf courses, and suburban lawns; deposition of nitrogen from the atmosphere; erosion of soil containing nutrients; and sewage treatment plant discharges <toxics.usgs.gov/definitions/eutrophication>

Exhaust Dying

Where the dyebath is used again and again until there is no residue of colour left, so there is no waste or water contamination.

Exhaust Printing

Developed by Beccy Early based on exhaust dying, where the heat photogram print paper is used until there is no discernable image left.

Externalities

(greenblue.org) the unforeseen or unaccounted negative impacts of products, service or system. An intelligent design process needs to understand wider implications of design decisions and intelligently alter the processes to remove these impacts.

Extrusion

Polymers are pushed through a spinneret which extrudes fibres (ridgewellpress).

Home

anniesherburne — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 08:35:22 CST

A self referencing guide to environmental textile and fashion design terms.

If you have any suggestions for more accurate interpretations of these terms please leave your suggestions with references and citation's for us to follow up in the comments at the bottom of the page. Thank you.

NB, whilst the advertisements that appear alongside this wiki claim to be eco or environmentally friendly, I have nothing to do with thier pressence and as such cannot endorse the products they promote. This is an educational wiki, and you are advised to carefully research any products or services you may wish to use by conducting a lifecycle analysis of the products offered, by asking about where and how they are produced and with what materials. Cross reference the answers with the wiki, and seek independent verification that the systems, products or processes are conforming to the highest standards.
Look for verification from places like the soil association, Oekotex1000 and SKAL lkabelling standards, and from other relevant environmental standards bodies.

P

anniesherburne — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 08:27:24 CST

Pantone

World wide standard colour system (ridgewell)

PAN UK

Organisation working to eliminate 'the dangers of toxic pesticides, our exposure to them, and thier pressence in the environment where we live and work'. Particularly active in the organic cotton movement internationally.
www.pan-uk.org

Paper yarn

Made by cutting and twisting. Hardwearing, flexible, breathable, can be used in garments ,was used as a substitute for jute and cotton in the ww1 in europe. Good alternative to wicker in furniture. fibre is more available and cheaper than
willow.

Paracelsus

Alchemist, Physician and Astronomer 1493-1541. pioneered the use of chemicals and minerals in medicine and is often quoted for his wisdom. He understood that is the amount of a given chemical that renders it poisonous so is known as an advocate for safe use of toxic substances in the correct dilution.

Particulates

Fine airborne bodies which are released when waste is burned. Cause respiratory disorders as they pass into the respiratory system of animals and humans.

Pathogen

(www.answers .com) An agent that causes disease, especially a living micro-organism such as a bacterium or fungus.

P-dichlorobenzene

Replacement for Napthalene as moth balls, recognisable smell. Evaporates, but is not biodegradable or dissolvable in water. Carcinigenic, endocrine disrupter.

(www.seventhgen.com)

Peace Silk

Vegetarian silk, where the silk is uncoiled from the cocoon after the moth has escaped naturally. The cocoon is unrolled and reveals one long continuous thread.

Pectinase

Type of alkaline enzyme used for bio-scouring.

Perchloroethylene (also "Perc")

A chlorinated solvent used most commonly in the dry cleaning process, "perc" is implicated in 90% of all groundwater contamination. Thought to be neurotoxic and carcinogenic (observer magazine 14.1.07)

Persistent Organochlorine Pesticides (POPS)

Persistent toxic pesticides such as DDT which stay in the soil and have transferred to the human body to the extent that they are present in breast milk with consequential health issues. Can be addressed by implementation of biodynamic farming practises.

Pesticides

See Integrated Pest Management

Petrochemicals

Basic feedstock for manmade synthetic fibres including nylon, elastane, acrylic and polyester (ridgewell).

PET Polyethalene Terephalate

Polyethylene Terephthalte or ‘PET’ chemicals are terephthalic acid (TA) or dimethyl terephthalate. they are reacted with ethylene glycol. TA is purified, based on bromide controlled oxidation (Kate Flethcher quoting Lausen and
hansen 1997 p 80-92).

Petroleum products are feedstock, other fossil fuels provide energy so energy consumption implications include global warming and ozone depletion. However, water consumption is low, sometimes non-existent. air emissions include
substrates with a medium to high environmental damage if left untreated, including heavy metal cobalt, and manganese salts, sodium bromide, titanium dioxide, antimony oxide and acetaldehyde. (Kate Fletcher)

PET is also made into bottles, and can be reclaimed. The subsequent feedstock can be used, as new, for fibres which are made into thermal fleeces, which can also be indefinitely reclaimed, and upcycled again and again.

Petroleum

A thick black to yellow mixture of gaseous, liquid and solid hydrocarbons that occurs naturally beneath the earths surface. Can be separated into fractions including natural gas, gasoline, naphtha, kerosine, fuel and lubricating oils, paraffin wax, and asphalt, and is used as a raw material for many derivative products. (answers.com) This is a technical nutrient. In any environmental assessment, its use should be limited as it is a nonrenewable, and preferably recycled in a closed loop system.

Phosphates

Basic phosphates are used to reduce water hardness and to deflocculate (prevent dirt settling back into clothes while washing). Found in laundry products and many common cleaning products for example: Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate/Tetrasodium pyrophosphate.

Phosphates are a key nutrient in ecosystems, these natural minerals important to the maintenance of all life. While relatively non-irritating and non-toxic in the environment, they nonetheless contribute to significant eutrophication of
waterways and create unbalanced ecosystems by fostering dangerously explosive marine plant growth. For these reasons they are banned or restricted in many states. Products containing phosphates should be considered unacceptable. (www.seventhgen.com) The world wildlife foundation recommends phosphate content should be less than 5%, but greenpeace says we should use products without any.

Pigments

Can be added to binders (usually acrylic) and used in screenprinting. Adhere with binder to the surface, do not penetrate the fibres. Sources areancient and modern, natural and synthetic.

Pigovian tax

(wik) A tax levied to correct the negative externalities of a market activity. For instance, a tax on producers who pollute the environment to encourage them to reduce pollution, and to provide revenue which may be used to counteract the
negative effects of the pollution.

Polymer

Chains of repeating monomers or of combinations of different monomers. Poly means ‘many’. Polymers can be natural or synthetic and have a wide variety of uses. In textiles they are combined to form fibres and spun into yarns. They can be made into plastics, but when reconstituted, can be used for different purposes, so are suitable as basic building bricks for recycling, reuse, and upcycling. Natural polymers biodegrade in the correct conditions.

Polyamide

Very strong eg nylon (ridgewell)

Polycarboxylates

New, synthetic phosphate substitutes. These are found in conventional laundry detergents. Their effects on human and environmental health remain largely unknown. Tests show they are non-toxic, do not interfere with treatment plant
operation and generally settle out with the sludge during water treatment, until further study and analysis are conducted, use of this ingredient is not recommended. Further, they are not biodegradable and are petroleum based.

(www.seventhgen.com)

Polyester

The dominant man made fibre, AKA PET. Often mixed with cotton, easy to clean, wear, and care, crease-free, a product for customer convienience. Could be upcycled indefinitely but not if mixed with cotton.

Polyethelene fibre

Generic name for a man made fibre (ridgewell)

Polylactic acid (PLA)

Can be processed like most thermoplastics into fibre (for example using conventional melt spinning processes) and film, except that it is derived from corn starch and sugarcane which are renewable resources. (wik) see also Ingeo.
Bacterial fermentation is used to produce lactic acid, which is then processed into the polymers which can be spun into fibres.(wik)

Polymers

(defra) Natural or synthetic compound with large molecules made of relatively simple repeated units. Also- A large molecule made up of smaller molecules. nearly all textiles are polymers. (ridgewell) Importantly, polymers are made from
combinations of monomers which have either the same or different chemical compositions. (Techno textiles) All polymers are man made fibres.

Polynosic fibres

Similar to Rayon

Post-consumer waste

(Defra) Discarded materials from office, commercial or residential sources.

Printing

There are many methods for applying pattern images and text onto fabric. The most eco friendly methods would require minimal wastage, for example block printing and stencilling.

Digital printing is commonly held to be environmentally acceptable because there is minute wastage. The inks, if water based are less toxic too. Electricity is required and the system relies on sophisticated machinery and technology. Production, use and disposal of the machinery would need to conform to environmental design standards to further enhance environmental design credentials.

In Germany, the company CSC Schafer has developed a new press for heat transfer printing. It uses Ceran stove tops, infra-red radiation and a special glass for printing plates. Insulation is improved. This allows printing heads to remain cold, heating up only after they are brought into contact with the fabric to be printed. Suitable for small and customised businesses, the process uses 85% less energy, and the print quality is better.

(Treehuger, july 10th 2005.)

Procion dyes

ref (www.kemtex.co.uk/infosheets.) fibre reactive, work best on cellulosic fibres. (fibercrafts)

Producer Responsibility

(9AFL) The producers of any given product are in a unique position to change the way it is made. EU legislation for electronic goods now requires companies to operate ‘take-back’ systems, which logically suggest that design for disassembly to recycle and upcycle effectively is the economic imperative.

Product of consumption

A (greenblue.org) Any product that can be used and safely discarded without harming the environment. These products wouldn’t need to be recycled or ‘managed’

Product of service

(Greenblue.org) A product that is used by the customer, but owned by the manufacturer, who retains ownership of their asset for continual reuse, while the customer has no material liability. Particularly important where the materials in question are valuable, non-renewable, hazardous. This is a sensible strategy to answer the global trend towards manufacturing take-back schemes. It also creates a system to maintain economic viability, both financially in the requirement to generate wealth, and practically in providing a solution for how to share, protect, and use finite resources

Cradle to Cradle p143- a concept which does not require that ‘consumer’ purchase products, but that they rent them, for example rent a soap!..”only 5% of a standard measure of detergent is used in a normal washing cycle. The machine would be loaded with continually reusable and recoverable detergent, and returned to the manufacturer for reloading, or when the machine needed upgrading.

Product take-back

See product of service

Products plus

Products with unnecessary additives. e.g. antimony in polymerisation process is unnecessary and releases dangerous carcinogenics the air on incineration. Or toxic dyes and catalysts on shirts which leach onto sweating skin.

Progging

Traditional thrift craft of rag rug making. Strips and scarps of fabric are ‘progged’ or poked through a loosely woven backing such as hessian, or old sacks, the resulting loops form the pile (which can also be cut, which makes the rug into a
‘clippy’ rug)

Protease

Enzyme that softens wool, but weakens its protein core, so needs to be used carefully. Also used in laundry products to remove protein stains.

PVC

Polyvinyl Chloride is polymersied from vinyl chloride monomers and compounded with plasticisers and other additives. (technotextiles) It is extremely toxic and un-eco. Used for handbags and belts, oil based consuming 25 barrels per day. Non biodegradable and can emit dangerous toxins during manufacture (Ethical consumer june / july 2002 p 16)
If PVC is accidentally present ammongst other plastics durring recycling, it contaminates the whole batch. An ideal solution is to halt all PVC production because it is so poisonous, and to prevent even accidental incidents of contamination of otherwise recyclable plastics.

Pyrethoids

Used to treat parasite infections in sheep, but are 1,000 times more toxic to aquatic life than organophosphates, but less dangerous to humans, so used more frequently.

Pyrolysis

Decomposition or transformation of a compound caused by heat. The application of pyrolysis to waste management has been gaining acceptance along with other advanced waste treatment technologies. Pyrolysis also can be used as a form of thermal treatment to reduce waste volumes and produce fuel as a by-product. Low temperature pyrolysis can also be used to produce a synthetic diesel fuel from waste plastic, through systems such as thermofuel. (wik)

D

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:18:44 CDT

Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane

From the company greenearth cleaning, an alternative to dry cleaning with perchloroethylene

Decompose

The breaking down of biodegradable materials into compost

Deconstruction

Taking products apart for reuse. Easiest when deconstruction has been considered in the first instance as part of the product lifecycle which enables recycling. Part of Design for disassembly.

Delignification

Removal of lignin from cellulose fibres, to enable spinning. < en.wikipedia.org . 7.5.07

[online]

Dematerialisation

Essentially taking materials out of the equation wherever possible. Replacing products with services, for example sharing resources, leasing goods from the manufacturer, getting away from the necessity for personal ownership. (an idea of Rem Koolhaus, elaborated on by AFL) Has implications for the designer to design for disassembly, for replacement of parts, for longevity and for ease of maintenance.

Design for disassembly

(Scot Fletcher p22 Eco design vol. V111 no 2) “Design for disassembly enables a product and its parts to be easily reused, remanufactured (or refurbished) or recycled at end of life.”

This is an essential design strategy for designers to employ when designing for a system of product of service.

Design for Durability

Products that can be mended, repaired, that do not go out of fashion, would require a stable, regular demand to support the production chain on which the durability would rely.

This important strategy is part of the new ecologically motivated industrial revolution.

Design for obselesence

Throwaway products, designed not to last. Designed to require replacement. Designed to keep the manufacturers making more and newer models, so that the customer has to keep coming back for more.

Devore

A technique where chemicals (usually sulphuric acid,) are printed or painted onto a cellulosic fabric to burn out areas which are not blocked with a ‘resist’. Some fabrics are composite, and the non-cellulosic is unaffected by the acid. Used to achieve aesthetic effects. Not eco friendly.

Downcycled

Downcycling is the journey from manufacture to landfill or disposal. (Cradle to Cradle and Greenblue.org) Much recycling is actually downcycling, where the inherent value of the materials has been compromised. Subsequent use is of lower performance quality too. (For opposite pattern of behaviour, see ‘up-cycling’)

Demeter is the only ecological association that has built up a network of individual certification organisations world-wide. Also interested in biodynamic farming methods.

Downsizing

Often seen as an opportunity to leave the rat race behind, earn less, but enjoy life more. It requires living within ones means, and acquiring new economic survival skills. This can also mean choosing occupations which are enjoyable for their own sake rather than wealth acquiring. Thrift, creativity, and more natural lifestyles can be manifestations of downsizing.

Some city bankers even end up farming Alpaca.

Direct dyes for cotton

Direct or substantive dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slightly alkaline dyebath, at or near boiling point, with the addition of either sodium chloride (Nalco) or sodium sulphate <en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye> 7.5.07 [online]

Discharge dyes

This is a system of removing dyed areas with bleach (which is made into a printing paste) and replacing these same areas with another colour. The effects give accuracy of alignment of different coloured areas in a pattern with a typical faint halo, or paler line around the discharged shapes. The use of bleach may be seen as un-environmental, also the waste of the bleached out pigment may be seen as wasteful.

Disperse dyes for PES and PA

Disperse dyes were originally developed for the dyeing of cellulose acetate, and are substantially water insoluble. The dyes are finely ground in the presence of a
dispersing agent and then sold as a paste, or spray-dried and sold as a powder.
They can also be used to dye nylon, cellulose triacetate, polyester and acrylic
fibres. In some cases, a dyeing temperature of 130 °C is required, and a pressurised dyebath is used. The very fine particle size gives a large surface area that aids dissolution to allow uptake by the fibre. The dyeing rate can be significantly influenced by the choice of dispersing agent used during the grinding.

<en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye> 7.5.07 [online]

Dralon

Dralon GmbH is an internationally renowned producer of acrylic fiber.

(< www.dralon.com > 7.5.07 [online])

Dry Cleaning

Perchloroethylene is a commonly used chlorinated solvent in the dry cleaning process, "perc" is implicated in 90% of all groundwater contamination. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane from the company greenearth cleaning is an alternative. (observer magazine 14.1.06)

Dupont

In the twentieth century, DuPont led the polymer revolution by developing many highly successful materials such as Vespel, neoprene, nylon, Corian, Teflon, Mylar, Kevlar, M5 fiber, Nomex, Tyvek and Lycra. <en.wikipedia.org> 7.5.07 [online] All these fibres and fabrics are high performance technical breakthroughs and dupont is considered a the world leader in the research and development of textiles and textile engineering.

Dyeing

The process of colouring fibres. This is the most problematic area of environmental textile design, and is best addressed by referring to the international bodies who evaluate best and acceptable practise, such as Oeko-100 and skal. Climatex have evolved best practise in use of dyes. Leeds green chemistry group is developing new ways of achieving 100% absorption of dyes as a major issue is waste and disposal. Natural dyeing is considered eco friendly, but has its own set of concerns.

‘Commercial dyes include fibre-reactive cold water dyes, which use an alkali chemical reaction between the pigment and the fibre. These are suitable for cotton, linen, rayon, viscose and silk. Acid dyes fix the colour by the use of acid and are suitable for wool, animal fibres, nylon and silk. Disperse dyes transfer and fix colour using heat to polyesters, acetates, acrylics and nylon". ( Hardy, S. ‘Handcrafted rugs’ 2001, pub: guild of master craftsmen. p 16)

B

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 10:00:44 CDT

BASF

The worlds leading chemical company, producing textile chemicals for the textile industry. All essential products and systems for sizing, pre-treatment, optical brightening, analogue and digital textile printing, coating and finishing, as well as dyeing auxiliaries. ( www.basf.com ) Inclusion in this directory does not imply support of this company.

Bamboo

A source of many types of raw material, from floorboards to fibre for yarn. It is fast growing so very quickly renewable, and most importantly, ‘releases 35% more oxygen than the equivalent amount of trees. It is ready for harvest in 3 years rather than 10-20 for softwoods, needs very little water or pesticide, and helps to rebind soil which has been subject to erosion. It does have to be processed with care though to retain its good eco reputation. (Siegle, Lucy. Ethical living column, Observer magazine “ is it ok to steal food from pandas? 6.5.07.) It is regenerated cellulose Bamboo is a fabulously soft fabric made from the fastest growing plant in the world - it’s been known to grow 47 inches in 24 hours, is pest resistant so no need for pesticides and can also happily grow in drought or flood prone areas which is perfect for farmers in developing countries.(<style will save us> 2.8.07)

Banana

Produces a hard fibre from the outer leaf sheaths and a finer one from inside. In Japan the fibre is used for smooth, stiff kimono, undyed or dyed using resist dying kasufi technique.

Bast

Fibres located in the inner core of the stem of a plant. Traditionally separated by a process known as retting. They have a high tensile strength. examples are jute, ramie, hemp, flax, rattan, soybean, banana, nettle. <www.wikipedia.org> 5.5.07 [online]

Biodegradable

Where materials break down by the microbial action of bacteria and fungi. Materials which do this can be referred to in an eco design context as Biological nutrients.

Biodiesel

Alternative fuel for alternative energy. Made from many different biological alternatives to fossil fuels.

Biodiversity

The whole gamut of animals, plants and species, including micro-organisms and fungi. Wide biodiversity is conducive to development of all species. (an)

Biodynamic Farming

“Biodynamics is a science of life-forces, based on the work of Rudolf Steiner, which a recognises the basic principles at work in nature, and approaches agriculture by taking these principles into account to bring about balance and healing.

Biodynamics is an ongoing path of knowledge rather than an assemblage of methods and techniques.” ( www.biodynamics.com 25.3.07) Unlike organic farming, it follows observed patterns of the moon and planets and recommends specific days and times to carry out all aspects of agricultural practise.

(http://www.jpibiodynamics.org )

Biofibres

Fibres which grow and renew themselves annually. bamboo, soy, algae, maize
agricultural waste and nettle.

Biogas

Biogas is generated when bacteria degrades biological material in the absence of oxygen, in a process known as anaerobic digestion. Since biogas is a mixture of methane (also known as marsh gas or natural gas) and carbon dioxide it is a renewable fuel produced from waste treatment. (www.energ.co.uk )

Bio manufacturing

(AFL) ‘Fabricateing products as they grow (e.g. Training gourds into shape while they grow for use in packaging after )’

Biomass

Also known as biofuels or bio energy, is obtained from organic matter either directly from plants or indirectly from industrial, commercial, domestic or agricultural products. The use of biomass is classed as a 'carbon neutral' process because the carbon dioxide released during the generation of energy from biomass is balanced by that absorbed by plants during their growth.( www.energ.co.uk )

Biological Metabolism

‘The natural processes of ecosystems which make safe and healthy use of materials abundantly’ ( www.greenblue.org key concepts)

Biological nutrients

(Cradle to Cradle) biodegradable materials which can re enter the water or soil without depositing synthetic materials and toxins.

Bio mass

This Term is used to talk about renewable sources of power and fuel, but it also refers to plant and biological matter. (AN)

Bio mimicry

In nature there is no waste. One thing becomes another. Designers need to harmonise product design to give full cycles of use to all the materials which they use. Designers need to mimic the design processes of nature.

Biominetics

Materials which have evolved in nature for the construction of animals and plants,so what more natural than to look to these materials for inspiration and models.EG: an example of smart technology, developed by Veronica Kapsali, inspired by the mechanism of pine cones opening and shutting, clothing will use the latest in micro technology to produce material which will let in air to cool a wearer when it is hot and shut out air when it is cold.

( www.bath.ac.uk/mecheng//biomimetics/newmats )

Bio polymers

Derived from Corn or sugar beet, bio polymers can be manufactured into biodegradable clear or opaque plastic and textile fibres which create fabric with the handle of silk or linen.

Biopolymers are also used to make alternatives to plastic, in the form of films and hard sheets. This means that ‘Consumers have a lively interest in biopolymers too. Conventional plastics are often seen as environmentally unfriendly. Sustainable plastics could therefore provide an image advantage www.o2.org.

Bioregionalism

The revival of locally appropriate growth fo fibre and production, for example inthe UK, flax and hemp indistries. This reduces transport costs, and emmissions,and encourages transparency and local accountability. See Localisation.

Bleaching

‘The process of removing colour. Chemically, chlorine can be used (sodium
hydrochlorite) An oxygen bleach contains hydrogen peroxide.’ <wikipedia.org>
5.5.07 [online] Indian Khadi cloth (the hand weaving industry started by
Ghandi) uses ox dung to bleach. On a recent visit to India, I was surprised to learn that dung is used as a cleaning agent.

Brushtail Fur

Possum were introduced to New Zealand in 1837 and have become a threat to the flora, fauna and wildlife. It is therefore the only environmentally friendly fur
and its use is supported by the World Wildlife Fund. (www.ecowool.com and
Howies)

By-product

Materials left over from or generated by a product or process. (an)

A

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 09:54:09 CDT

Accessories(Zips buttons etc.)

Additions to clothes would include fastenings and embellishments. Nylon or metal zips, Buttons can be made of plastic, cellulose, acetate, shell, tagua, wood. Sequins, beads, Manufacture of which is various and should be assessed using a lifecycle analysis. Some materials are more obviously environmentally friendly, and consideration of alternative ways of fastening should be made by the eco-conscious designer.

Acetate

Regenerated fibre made from wood pulp (http://www.ridgewellpress.co.uk/)

Acid dye for wool

Milling acid dyes are quite fast Many acid dyes are synthesised from chemical intermediates which form anthraquinone-like structures as their final state. Acid dyes are water-soluble anionic dyes that are applied to fibres such as silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic fibres using neutral to acid dyebaths. Attachment to the fibre is attributed, at least partly, to salt formation between anionic groups in the dyes and cationic groups in the fibre. Acid dyes are not substantive to cellulosic fibres. (wik)

Acid dyes for Nylon

Acid dyes are compatible for dying nylon. Although fibre reactive dyes do not dye nylon, they will work if acid is added, then they work like acid dyes. <www.pburch.net > 5.5.07 [online]

Acid Rain

‘Where industrial pollutants (mainly sulfur dioxide and nitrogen oxides) mix with naturally occurring oxygen and water vapour and fall as corrosive rain’ (Antron.net)

Acrylic

A fibre made from acrylonitrile. ( www.ridgwellpress.co.uk ) Brand-name ‘Dralon’

Adaptive reuse

Using a building or a site for purposes other than the original intention.(AN) A kind of architectural recycling. Adaptive reuse could be applied to other design areas as a model.

Adaptive fabrics

Fabrics which adapt to needs whilst in use, for example breathable fabrics. Using biominetic models ( www.bath.ac.uk/mech-eng//biominetics )

Aerobic Treatment

Organic compounds are broken down by microbial action in the presence of oxygen. (AN)

Agenda 21

(AFL) Blueprint for global action, signed by 172 governments at Rio Earth Summit in 1992.Used as a model for local action by local governments seeking guidance.

Alginates

Alginates are made of soft non-woven fibres derived from seaweed. They are usually in the forms of pads, ropes or ribbons. dry they are lightweight, but absorb many times their weight.

Alginates absorb wound exudate and form a gel-like covering over the wound,
maintaining a moist wound environment. < www.medicaledu.com > 5.5.07. [online]

Alkaline

(Compounds with pH greater than 7) that dissolve in water. High concentrations
are caustic, causing chemical burns. < wikipedia.org > 5.5.07 [online]

Alkyl benzene sulfonates or ABS

See synthetic surfactants ( www.seventhgen.com )

Alkyl phenoxy polyethoxy ethanols

See synthetic surfactants ( www.seventhgen.com )

Alpaca

A member of the cameltid species, Alpaca originate from South America. Their fine, soft fur is shorn only once a year and is of premium quality. It needs to be blended for strength with another suitable fibre such as Bluefaced leicester. Alpaca have integrated well into UK farming livestock. They come in many beautiful colours and therefore give a wide variety of shades for spinning into different coloured yarns which therefore do not need to be dyed.

Alternative Energy Source

Alternatives to conventional mass usage of fossil fuels. these include wind, water, solar, heat exchange, bio fuels, geothermal, ethanol, gas from landfills. (AN)

Alternative Fibres

Are used in times of shortage, and are usually what is available locally. In the UK,
nettles could be used like linen or hemp. Other raw materials include paper,
banana, and coconut. (Eco-design volume 5 no 1 Kate Fletcher, Alternative fibres)

Amine Oxide

Solvent in which wood pulp cellulose is dissolved to make Viscose (Lyocell / Tencel) www.bolton.ac.uk

Amylase

Anenzyme that breaks down starch. For removing size in textile
processes.( http://www.novozymes.com/ ) Used in dish washing detergent to remove starch residues. (wik)

Anaerobic Treatment

A descriptive term for a process such as fermentation th`at can only happen in the absence of oxygen. Also living things that can only survive without oxygen. (www.answers.com)

For municipal wastewater treatment, it is the most cost effective and environmentally sound way to stabilise sewage sludge. The volume of waste is reduced, and it creates its own energy in the form of methane which can fuel the whole process. (www.rpi.edu)

Aniline dyes

Toxic if inhaled

Anti-microbial

Capable of destroying or inhibiting the growth of micro-organisms. (e.g. anti-microbial drugs are used to fight infections caused by bacteria, fungi and viruses.) Pasteur and Joubert saw that one type of bacteria could prevent the growth of another.

(www.textilesintelligence.com )- Antimicrobials combat odour-producing underarm and personal bacteria and reduce skin infections caused by fungi. They are used in sportswear, underwear and in protective clothing to prevent the spread of antibiotic resistant bacteria in hospitals. They could also be used to reduce the need for excessive laundering without compromising hygiene. Laundering contributes 80% of the environmental impact in the Lifecycle analysis of textiles.

APEOs

Toxic . Alkyle phenol Ethoxylates. Used to scour wool.

Artificial colour

Many are petroleum based, do not biodegrade, are toxic and allergenic to skin and

eyes (www.seventhgen.com )

Artificial Fragrance

Many are petroleum or coal based, do not biodegrade, are toxic and allergenic to skin and eyes (seventhgen.comMany are petroleum or coal based, do not biodegrade, are toxic and allergenic to skin and eyes (seventhgen.com)

Avoidance

(AFL) Don’t use materials or processes which are harmful to health or eco-systems. In Cradle to Cradle, The most poisonous substances are only ever to be used in a cost benefit analysis, where they are used only essential processes which would be impossible without them.

Azo Dyes

Azo dyeing is a technique in which an insoluble azoic dye is produced directly onto or within the fibre. This is achieved by treating a fibre with both diazoic and coupling components. With suitable adjustment of dyebath conditions the two
components react to produce the required insoluble azo dye. This technique of dyeing is unique, in that the final colour is controlled by the choice of the diazoic and coupling components. < ://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye > 7.5.07 [online]

Generally held to be dangerous, particularly in coloration of leather where they are not environmentally acceptable

W

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:53:21 CDT

Wardrobe Surgery

A service available from recycled fashion gurus; Junky Styling. They repair, redesign, restyle and refit clothes. People can get their own outfits altered to fit or changed into something completely new: long loved favourite garments can have their life extended. It is at once bespoke, mending, creating, extending, customising,

Waste equals Food

( Cradle to Cradle, North point press. 2002. William McDonough and Michael Braungart) ‘Products can be designed from the onset so that, after their useful lives, they will provide nourishment for something new”

(see also “biological nutrients” and “technical nutrients”)

Waste Streams

(Defra) The sources of waste. there are 3: Household, commercial and industrial. Waste is recycled, recovered, or landfilled

Waste to Energy

(as) Use of methane from anaerobic composting of waste to create energy. Also waste is burned to release energy, but this releases particulates into the air. Also the possibility of mining landfill to reclaim all the buried refuse into biofuel, using new technology.

Wastewater

Micro-organisms break down contamination in waste water because they possess enzymes which allow them to use that contamination as food. In wastewater, theses microbes function successfully under controlled conditions.

Water based screen printing inks

Most screen printing companies print garments using plastisol inks, which are easy to use and last well. However, plastisol inks contain PVC and phthalates that are harmful to the environment and have been linked to various medical disorders.

Plastisol inks also require the use of harmful solvents in the cleaning process. Water-based inks do not contain PVC or phthalates and are much more environmentally friendly. Permaset Aqua inks do not contain any toxic chemicals
at all. It is formulated free from Lead and other heavy metals and complies with Oekotex Class 1. Permaset Aqua inks do not contain ozone-depleting chemicals such as CFC's and HCFC's, aromatic hydrocarbons or any volatile solvents. And you don't need solvents to clean the screens down after they've been used - you
can clean them with water. www.idressmyself.co.uk/waterbased_inks

Water consumption

Excessive water consumption in any part of production and manufacture of textiles has adverse consequences. EG the Aral sea tributary rivers were diverted for ‘White gold’ cotton production by Russia and have lost 80% volume since the 1960’s. (well dressed? and wikepedia.org) Excessive water consumption also occurs in laundering.

WEEE directive

The Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment Directive (WEEE Directive) aims to minimise the impact of electrical and electronic goods on the environment, by increasing re-use and recycle and reducing the amount of WEEE going to landfill. It seeks to achieve this by making producers responsible for financing the collection, treatment, and recovery of waste electrical equipment, and by obliging distributors to allow consumers to return their waste equipment free of charge. (<www.dti.gov.uk> 2.7.07)
Wet Extruded solvent spinning

Process by which cellulosic fibres are

created.( www.bolton.ac.uk/pdd/learningmaterials/textiles 25.3.07)

White Line

A pioneering new tanning method for leather which eliminates Chrome. (terra
Plana)

Wicking

Ability of the fibre to transfer water along its surface. (ridgewell) This is a natural quality of wool (eg felt pens) Wicking is an important technical attribute which may be employed to prevent sweat adhering to clothes and therefore
requiring excess laundering (eg wicking away sweat to evaporate).

Wool

Textile fibres of animal origin. The fur of sheep, goat, lama. It is sheered, cleaned and spun. The fibres have unidirectional scales on them which overlap and act like pine cone scales. The fibres have kinks on them. The thickness, length, kink, differ with the many different breeds of animals. The technical attributes of the fibres are many. Wicking properties can be controlled to enable complex engines in aeroplanes to be oiled evenly by the use of wool felt plugs. Pianos play as a result of complex technical engineering with wool.

Wool, environmental impacts

Parasite infection is treated by dipping the sheep in organophosphates which can cause severe nerve damage in humans or pyrethoids which are 1,000 times more toxic to aquatic life than organophosphates, but less dangerous to humans, so used more frequently. The main environmental impacts occur as a result of effluents from scouring which pollute water and land with high suspended solids content of grease.

1 kilo of wool yields an extra 1.5 kilos of waste.(KF quoting UNEP 1993 p 22)

The grease could be reclaimed for use as lanolin but is not because of prior use
of pesticides. (Fletcher, Kate.)

V

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:28:20 CDT

VAT dyes for cotton

VAT dyes cannot be used in their original form, or dissolved in water. They have to have a medium. They are dissolved in an alkaline medium which can them impregnate the fibres. The dyebath is rendered oxygen free in this process (Like
dying with indigo, where lye is used to remove the oxygen) When the fibre is reintroduced to the air, it reoxygenates, and the dyestuff returns to its original form within the fibre which has now taken on the colour of the dye. (combination of < www.uni-regensburg.de > and <www.pburch.net> 7.5.07 [online])

Vat dying simply means the process of immersion in a dyebath which is heated.

Vegetal Leather

An alternative to leather, made in Brazil, in the rainforest, from latex. AKA Treetap

Vicuna

Undercoat of lama which makes a soft fibre.(ridgewell)

Vilene

Man made fabric which is used for interfacing to stiffen garments. (ridgewell)

Virgin Materials

(defra) Raw materials and resources to be used in manufacturing for the first time.

Viscose

Man made but naturally derived cellulosic fibre and fabric . (Good description of the process of making in wikepedia.) AKA Rayon.

Lenzing fibres are the manufacturers. Viscose is completely biodegradable, can be recycled, incinerated, landfilled or digested in sewage’. (< www.lenzing.com > 7.5.07

[online]) However, according to kate Fletcher, quoting Lauren and hansen 1997 p 69-79, it is pulped in a sulphite based process, and spun with significant environmental impact. Bleached with hydrogen sodium hydroxide and treated with carbon disulphine then spun in a solution of sulphuric acid, sodium sulphate, zinc sulphate and glucose. It generates air emissions of sulphur, nitrous oxides, carbon disulphide and hydrogen sulphide. Emissions into water, if untreated, contain high levels of COD and BOD, nitrates, phosphates. iron, zinc, oil and grease.

Visil

A flame retardant, viscose fibre with high silica content (ridgewell)

VOCs

Volitile organic compounds including formaldahyde, organo-chlorines and
phenols, which release vapours at room temperature, including carpets, and
underlays. Cause rashed, ashthma, fatigue.

U

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 08:12:36 CDT

Unmarketables

Too dangerous to ever be used (www.greenblue.org)

Up cycled

‘The practise of recycling material in such a way that it maintains and / or accrues value over time. (the opposite of downcycling)’ ( www.greenblue.org/cradle_concepts. ) For example, materials in a product which can be disassembled, broken down and circulated infinitely, where necessary using in a closed loop industrial cycle (CCp5) whilst retaining their quality.

Universal

A standardisation of essential elements, for example units of measurement.

S

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:41:54 CDT

Saluala

‘To select from a pile in the manner of rummaging ‘.(tranberg Hansen, K Saluala, The world of second hand clothing and Zambia.) The second hand clothing that clothes the whole of Zambia and employs 2 million people.

Samu wash nuts

A natural source of saponins for machine and hand laundering. The case of nuts harvested for biodiesel in India. Use a handful in a cotton bag twice, then compost remaining vegetable matter. the wash nut tress are not sprayed.

Sanforisation

Treatment applied to cotton whilst stretching length and width to prevent subsequent shrinkage after washing.(www.r0.unctad.org)

Scouring wool

Cleaning the grease and organic matter from fleeces is environmentally invasive because of the residue of grease and scourer left in suspension in the cleaning water. In 2003, the EU directive 76/69 called for a ban on substances and preparations including nonyl phenol ethoxylate because of aqautic toxicity and low biodegradability. Alcohol Ethoxylates are subsituted, which biodegrade faster and are less toxic although scouring is less efficient.

www.wooltesting.sgs.com

Screen printing

The processes of screen printing are wasteful, and require wash-off which does contaminate water with whichever chemicals and inks are being used. Screen printing Better practise.

Making up ones own ingredients, using procion with manutex and urea.

(suggestion from Fibre crafts)

Seacell

A cellulose and seaweed-based fibre that slowly releases silver ions could have applications in medical textiles and hygiene products, such as compression stockings and burns bandages. Fibre produced by the Lyocell process Anti allergen, antifungal and antibacterial.

Seamless garment manufacture

The less threads used, the less sweated labour. Threads are often different fibres from the cloth of a garment and can contaminate an oil based (technical nutrient) garment which could be taken back and reused by upcycling. Historiac examples include felted kepeneks worn by Turkish shepherds, part coat, part wearable tent.

Self cleaning clothes,

Inspired by lotus leaves, a polymer film, including silver nanotechnology particles makes water drops bead up and roll off, even taking dirt with them. mse.clemson.edu/scrapbook

Also bacteria impregnated into every single fibre of a fabric, could live, breed and eat up the dirt, creating self-cleaning clothes. Eventually, the garments in your wardrobe may be able to support a variety of bacteria engineered to eat odour-causing chemicals and human sweat. Other bacteria might secrete waterproof and protective coatings to extend the life of clothing and produce antiseptic for bandages. 05 July 2001 New Scientist

Serge

Famous fabric made from shoddy. Dyed blue to cover the variable colouration of the recycled fibre.

Silk

Single filament spun by the mulberry eating silk moth to create a cocoon. Unwound and spun to create luxury fabrics from fine chiffon to heavy dupions and velvets.

Single material

Allows for ease of proper recycling. When materials are mixed, they contaminate each other, and cannot be easily reclaimed. (EU Cotton in poly cotton must be burned away to reclaim the polyester.)

Sisal

Yields a stiff fibre which is used for rope and carpets. The plant is an agave, which is a succulent.

Sizing booths

Advanced technology. A person is measured using CAD and the clothes made to fit or altered using CAM. Could be used to avoid waste, and in co-designing and in mass market applications of customisation.

Skal

Environmental certification body which gives organic certification and has consumer confidence in the Netherlands and growing recognition across Europe.

Slow Consumption

Strategies which slow down the speed of consumption of products. Tim Cooper of sheffield Hallem, suggests ‘product life extension as an alternative to producing new products and discarding old ones’ <www.shu.ac.uk/schools/slm/csc.html> 7.5.07 [online]

Design for durability would also slow down the consumption of products.

Slow Design

Strategy evolved by Alastair Faud Luke to live more slowly. Inspired by the movement for slow food, a reaction against fast food. Nourishing ourselves with rituals of delay.

Smart Technology

For the purposes of ecological textile and fashion design, the use of nano technology, biominetics, etc to create fabrics which mitigate environmentally damaging aspects of use, for example laundering, which could include self-cleaning clothes.

SME

Small to medium sized enterprise / business.

Sodium Carbonate

Domestically it is used as a water softener during laundry. It competes with the ions magnesium and calcium in hard water and prevents them from bonding with the detergent being used. Without using washing soda, additional detergent is
needed to soak up the magnesium and calcium ions. Called Washing Soda.

<en.wikipedia.org> . 7.5.07 [online]

Sodium bicarbonate

Used to neutralise acid and to restore ph balance of water with a high level of
chlorine: < en.wikipedia.org . 7.5.07 [online]

Sodium Hydroxide

Also known as lye or caustic soda. Used in soap making, as a catalyst for the
production of biodiesel, and in the delignification of cellulosic materials (which
separates out the cellulose fibres.) < en.wikipedia.org . 7.5.07 [online]

Soil Association

The UK’s largest organic certification body. (www.soilassociation.org)

SolarPlate Prints

Printing system which uses the sun to develope the printing plate. (Cyanotypes)

Solvent spinning

PET is solvent spun. Colour can be added to the process of making the fibre, so there is no dye waste. Fibres, yarns and fabrics can be returned to the solvent state for reuse, maintaining the potential perpetual lifecycle of nonrenewables. (AS)

Solution dyed

(green chemistry conference) Dye in solution with the liquid stage of polyester or nylon manufacturing. There is no dye waste, and the colour is light and wash fast. The colour remains and if these materials are recycled, and the colours are separately sorted, economic reuse potential is endless.

Solution spinning

Includes wet spinning and dry spinning. The former method was first used to produce rayon fibres, and the latter method was used to spin cellulose triacetate to acetate fibres. ( www.britanica.com )

Soy silk

Soy Silk is made of left-overs from the tofu manufacturing process. It is soft, lustrous and resembles Silk in appearance and handling. Dye it as you would Tussah Silk, with acid or natural dyes. And since it is a cellulosic fiber, Procion Dyes should work well too. Colours wick into the fiber quickly, and are bright and strong.

( www.earthguild.com 5 4 07)

Staple

Name used to describe a fibre.

Stuffing

See filling and kapok

Substantive dyes

A dye used in a process in which dye molecules are attracted by physical forces at the molecular level to the textile. The amount of this attraction is known as "substantivity": the higher the substantivity the greater the attraction of the dye for the fiber. Also known as direct dying. Direct or substantive dyeing is normally carried out in a neutral or slightly alkaline dyebath, at or near boiling point, with the addition of either sodium chloride or sodium sulphate.

< www.wikipedia.org > 7.5.07 [online]

Substitution

A very large number of different chemicals are used in the production and use of textiles, so the possibility of substitution has enormous implications for the textile industry. The Danish Technological Institute is participating in several
projects to investigate the possibility of substituting chemicals in production.

(www.danishtechnology.dk)

Sugar beet

Along with corn, sugar beet can be used in the manufacture of environmentally friendly fibres and plastics for use as textiles which respond like silk or linen, and of clear or opaque wrapping for food. Is biodegradable in the correct conditions. One brand name is INGEO.

Sulphur Dioxide

(www.answers.com) A colourless, extremely irritating gas or liquid is used in many industrial processes, especially in the manufacture of sulphuric acid. Products include bleach, reducing agents, and sulphites which are food preservatives. Sulphur dioxide is formed when sulphur containing fuels are burned, in the atmosphere it can combine with water vapour to form acid rain.

Surfactants

Surface active ingredients acting as cleaning agents in a product.

Surfactants (Synthetic)

Synthetic surfactants often derived from petroleum. There are various types:

Alkyl phenoxy polyethoxy ethanols (also nonyl phenoxy ethoxylate or nonyl phenol ethoxylate) Found in laundry products and many common cleaning products. Adverse effect on genes, slow to biodegrade and carcenergenic. Alkyl benzene sulfonates or ABS (also linear alkyl benzene sulfonates or LAS, linear alkyl sodium sulfonates). Very slow to biodegrade and seldom used. LAS, however, are the most common surfactants in use. During the manufacturing process, carcinogens and reproductive toxins such as benzene are released into the environment. Because oleo-based alternatives are available, LAS should not be used. Also used in Laundry products and usually identified as “Anionic Surfactants’

Another group of surfactants include Tetrapotassium pyrophosphate/Tetrasodium pyrophosphate. these are basic phosphates (tetrasodium being the more common of the two) used to reduce water hardness. ( www.seventhgen.com )

Surfactants (Biodegradable)

The greensmart™ designation is used for Novozymes' formulations that utilise biodegradable surfactants at a neutral pH, contain no phosphates, no solvents, and low concentrations of volatile organic compounds (VOC). So they are safe for humans and the environment. ( www.novozymes.com )

Sustainability

‘Implies using resources, including design and energy, with maximum efficiency, at a rate that does not compromise the needs of future generations -(EW) It is a term also applied to communities and systems. AFL says it means the subject can persist a long time into the future.

Sustainable product design

(AFL) requires 1) no detrimental environmental impact. 2) made from sustainable resources in terms of materials and energy consumption 3) ethical production without exploitation, 4) economic viability. 5) Follows principles of eco-design.

Swishing

Another word for swapping and freesharing.

Synthetic fibres

‘Acrylic, nylon, polyester. Derived from polymers. produced from simple chemicals, primarily petrochemicals. Energy intensive’ (well dressed p 44)

Systematic Product recycling

When a product is ‘taken back’ by a manufacturer, systems will have been designed to utilise the material value of the returned item. It will have been designed for disassembly. Companies involved in systematic product recycling will have developed the necessary economies of scale to make this a viable proposition. Storage of disassembled parts and sorting facilities will be necessary. Other eco-design strategies might be utilised, which in themselves are often also financially beneficial. these could include sites where most processes can take place avoiding unnecessary transportation costs. The production systems might be closed loop, Energy might be a by product of the system, or other carbon neutral or alternative energy sources might be in place.

Systemic Insecticides

‘Systemic insecticides have an ability to permeate all the tissues of an animal or plant and make them toxic. This property is possessed by some chlorinated hydrocarbons and others in the organophosphorous group.’ (Carson R silent spring p 46. pub penguin 1972)

R

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 07:08:31 CDT

Rag Trade

Commonly used slang for the fashion trade.

Ramie

Nettle like bast fibre

Rayon

Regenerated Cellulosic fibre / fabric Rayon is produced from naturally occurring polymers and therefore it is not a synthetic fiber, but a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. AKA viscose, and artificial silk

Reactive dye

In an alkaline bath a chemical bond is formed with cellulosic fibres. Saline effluent kills aquatic life, increases algae, reduces O2 in water. Energy and water use high.

(www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/fiber/cellulose) Also known as Procion dyes

(AS). Reactive dyes give a medium depth of colour on cotton, silk, viscose, rayon, wool. there is a 70% uptake. (Kemtex)

Reactive Dyes, eco-friendly use

Use as little water as possible. Methods include dying in a plastic bag. Cold reactive dyes use less energy, fix cold and are widely used. Minimum steeping 1 hr, leave overnight for stronger colour. In the washing machine at 40 degrees, home dying is considered of little environmental impact in comparison with industry, but this is the subjective opinion of my advisor. (source Kemtex dyes telephone conversation March 2007))The effluent goes into the ‘foul drain’
as effluent, and is dealt with by local sewage treatment plants along with all domestic effluent which would contain chemical residues from domestic cleaning products too. The onus is on the sewage treatment plants to filter out and dispose of these chemicals.

Reactive dyes for cotton

Reactive dyes utilise a coloured organic molecule that is capable of directly reacting with the fibre substrate. The bonds at a molecular level are so good, that they are the most permanent dyes for natural fibres. "Cold" reactive dyes, such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K, are very easy to use because the dye can be applied at room temperature. Reactive dyes are by far the best choice for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibres at home or in the art studio. <en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye> 7.5.07 [online}

What makes reactive dyes the best choice for environmentally friendly colouration of textiles is very little waste, and little need for energy as they work well as cold dyes. Kemtex have told me that uptake is at least 70%. Fibrecrafts (GEorge Weil) have strategies including dyeing in plastic bags which are even more economic.

Ready-mades

AFL) components formally made for another use are used to make another product instead.

Reclamation

The active re-engagement with the system where items have been designated as waste. Applies to buildings which are being knocked down, land which has gone wild or become unusable. Bringing back to life that which has been disposed of. Redesign recognises reclamation in a design process where the waste materials are not processed but used directly.

Recover

Remaindered materials from a process which are returned into the process.

Recreate

Customisation and personalisation of existing objects. (redesign)

Recycled

This involves the reuse of the component materials in a product after its current lifecycle has ended. Reasons for this include appreciation of value of the basic materials, prevention of waste and inherent problems with disposal. (ecodesign vol. V111 no 2 )-How can we achieve this? It must involve the creation of end-user markets. Until the public has an increased awareness and confidence in the quality of recycled products, the market for them will remain as it is. Labelling needs to be simplified to help the consumer.”

Re-cycling is often referred to by cutting edge thinkers (McD) as downcycling, because it is part of the journey from production to disposal or cradle to grave. (Defra) sees recycling as the whole process of collection, separation, processing and return to the economic mainstream as raw materials or finished goods.

Recyclable

(defra) say that this is waste that can be readily used in a similar or altered form.

Recyclate

(defra) “The raw material which will be processed into a recycled product”

Recycled content

(defra) The amount of material within a product that is recycled.

Recycled Fleece

Recycled PET (Polyethylene Terephalate)

Recycled products

(Defra) Products with some recycled content.

Reduce

Using less of everything to make a product: the materials, energy, use and transport. (AS) Multifunction often accompanies reduction as a design strategy. (Redesign)

Refurbishment

Regenerated cellulose fibres

Fibres made from cellulose and made into viscose, rayon or acetate. (ridgewell) and cupro (well dressed p 44) Techno textiles call it a ‘Natural Chemical” from a source such as wood pulp, chemically treated to create a new fibre. Bamboo is a regenerated cellulosic fibre too.

Regenerated Fibres

Refers to fibres which are protein or cellulose based. Viscose rayon is such a fibre.

(ridgewell)

Regiving

(wik) Giving goods to others, charitable donations, a waste not want not mentality.

Rehance

Eco screen printing. tsdesigns.com

Remanufacture

(wik) A rather grey area legally. It means the refurbishment of an item to enable its continued use. How it is presented in the market place can contravene copyrights and patents if it is considered to have been reconstructed, but Ok if it has been repaired.

Selling an item declared as ‘used’ can get around need for warrenties. Redesign calls this re-making. It relates to items that have been designed for disassembly, so that they can be easy to re-use or recycle at their end-of-life.

Remind

Objects that remind you of something and which you want to cherish. Another strategy recognised by redesign, which also has resonance's with vintage and with revivalism in design movements. An important psychological imperative for any designer to understand is the reassurance that objects can evoke. This resonates with Jonathan Chapmans idea of Emotionally durable design.

Renewable resources

Sustainable resources, repeatable materials which grow and can be replanted, animal fibres.

Renewable power

(AFL) ‘electricity generated from products that convert the energy of sun, wind, water or geothermal heat from the earths crust.’

Repair

To mend rather than to throw away. Seen as uneconomic as often the cost of repair is greater than replacement. Insurance for white goods will often give promissory notes for replacement when items break down. Parts are expensive, or are not produced, storage costs are prohibitive and render repair and storage of parts uneconomical. Products are not designed to last. (AS)

Repurposed

Another word for reuse

Resist dyeing

Applying wax or starch to stop the dye entering the fabric - used for batik.

Resource

Redesign define this aspect of environmental design as relating to designs which use renewable natural materials, managed to ensure a sustainable supply. However, resources are materials, energy, and potentials. If the ‘source’ has to be sustainable (ie constantly renewing, constantly reavailable) to warrant being called a resource, then a complete cradle to cradle cycle involving technical nutrients could also qualify. Also transition sources such as landfill, and recycling centres could provide finite opportunities for repeat visits to support design activity and productive use.

Respond

A major part of the shift to environmental design is a change in the philosophy of objects, and products. It is less important for objects to ‘signify’ in isolation. Redesign say that ‘sociable designs invite interaction and friendliness’

Retting

The process of rotting away the vegetable matter from a bast plant stem to leave the fibrous core, from which thread can be spun. Traditionally retting would occur by tying bunches of stems together, leaving them in a stream or on snow, over a period of time. Industrially, this can occur in retting vats.

Reuse

(wik) Using an item more than once, either the same use (e.g. refillable bottles) or another function (e.g. polishing cloths from old tee-shirts) Redesign extend the idea to creative use of ready made second hand objects and components too.

Q

anniesherburne — Tue, 25 Sep 2007 06:29:07 CDT

Quality Dividend

(Greenblue.org) Value can accrue, upcycling and other environmental strategies can increase profits, as a direct result of increases in the environmentally conscious design input.

X

anniesherburne — Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:31:23 CDT

Xylene sulfonate

A synthetic that, when reacted with sulphuric acid, creates a surfactant. Slow to biodegrade in the environment and moderately toxic.
Found in: Conventional laundry products ( www.seventhgen.com )

Z

anniesherburne — Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:30:08 CDT

Zero emissions

(AFL) motors and systems that do not produce greenhouse gases, or emit particulates. The ideal is a system that generates renewable power, rather than electrically driven motors where the power station used nuclear processes or fossil fuels.

O

anniesherburne — Mon, 24 Sep 2007 10:28:57 CDT

Oeko-Tex Standard 100

A voluntary labelling scheme for textiles that have been analysed for substances harmful to health, which can offer a form of ‘consumer guarentee’ Considered to be one of the certification and labelling leaders internationally. Used in the EU, the substances that Oeko-tex checks for and limits are:

pH

Formaldehyde

Heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni, Hg)

Pesticides Chlorinated phenols

Dyestuffs (specific classifications)

Chlorinated organic carrier

Flame retardant finishes

Colour Fastness

Emission of volatiles

Odours

Openloop recycling

The conversion of material from one or more products into a new product, involving a change in the inherent properties of the material itself (often a degradation in quality). For example, recycling plastic bottles into plastic drainage pipes. Often called downcycling or reprocessing. <www.sustainabilitydictionary.com >

7.5.07 [online]

Optical Brighteners

A broad classification of many different synthetic chemicals that, when applied to clothing, convert UV light wavelengths to visible light, thus making laundered clothes appear "whiter." they simply trick the eye. Optical brighteners do not readily biodegrade. They are toxic to fish when washed into the general environment and can create bacterial mutations. They can cause allergic reaction when in contact with skin that is then exposed to sunlight.

Found in: Conventional laundry detergents. www.seventhgen.com

Organic

‘Thought by EW to be imprecise, and often also used to describe products that echo the form of the natural world, which is not the same as designing to protect.However, the soil association uses the term to denote a highly regulated transition to environmentally integrated farming and production methods, and lends its seal to products which are tested rigourously and found to conform to these standards. Organic Cotton is now recognised by the consumer for its greater environmental integrity, so the understanding of this term has changed.

Organic Leather

POMP-IUV is the first company to have an organic soil association seal of approval. They use a special wet gold organic tanning process. They believe in using only the skins and fur which is the by-product of the meat industry. (PSFK global trends website)

Organic Solvents

Not to be confused with the benign organic movement in agriculture. Used in all purpose cleaners. A category of solvents and grease-cutters of mostly synthetic origin (organic in this instance refers to their petroleum origins). All chemicals in
this category are generally neurotoxins and nervous system depressants, especially if contacted in sufficient quantity. (www.seventhgen.com)

Organic Phosphorous Insecticides

Examples include Malathion and Parathion. They are based on carbon atoms, the indispensible building blocks of the living world, which is why they are called organic. However they are manipulated in such a way as to effectively deliver
extremely toxic methods of death to living organisms. Even in minute doses, they are stored in fat cells and in the liver, and can combine with other toxic agents which have been engineered to be carried on the carbon atom structure into living tissue. Accumalations cause mutations, are carcenegenic, cause birth deffects and attack the nervous system to destroy the delicately balanced mechanism of living creatures. ( Carson R Silent Spring 1962, pub penguin. p34)
See Carbon atoms

Organophosphates (OPs) are a group of synthetic chemical compounds, composed of variable mixtures of phosphorus, carbon, and hydrogen. Used in sheep dips as insecticides, and in thousands of licensed pesticides. They act as
cholinesterase inhibitors (chemicals that disrupt neuromuscular transmission), and as such were also developed as neurotoxins during the Second World War. Sarin - the poison gas released by Aum Shinrikyo cultists in 1995 onto the Tokyo underground - is the most well-known organophosphate-based chemical weapon.

Organophosphate pesticides account for 38 per cent of all pesticides in use globally and 26 per cent used in Europe (Source: All Party Parliamentary OP Group Briefing, 2004) Pesticide Action Network UK claims that of the 100,000 people who have worked in sheep farming since 1976, by 1998, 1,000 of these have been made ill by exposure to organophosphate sheep dips (Source: PAN UK, 1998 press release) The use of pesticides prevents the lanolin from fleece being reclaimed despite being a valuable natural skin cream because of contamination.

Ozone (depletion, hole, layer)

Ozone in the upper atmosphere protects living organisms by preventing damaging ultraviolet light from reaching the Earth's surface. It is present in low concentrations throughout the Earth's atmosphere (wik).