Rag Trade
Commonly used slang for the fashion trade.
RamieNettle like bast fibre
RayonRegenerated
Cellulosic fibre / fabric Rayon is produced from naturally occurring
polymers and therefore it is not a
synthetic fiber, but a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fiber. AKA
viscose, and artificial
silkReactive dye
In an alkaline bath a chemical bond is formed with cellulosic fibres. Saline effluent kills aquatic life, increases algae, reduces O2 in water. Energy and water use high.
(
www.apparelsearch.com/definitions/fiber/cellulose) Also known as Procion dyes
(AS). Reactive dyes give a medium depth of colour on
cotton,
silk,
viscose,
rayon,
wool. there is a 70% uptake. (Kemtex)
Reactive Dyes, eco-friendly useUse as little water as possible. Methods include dying in a plastic bag. Cold reactive dyes use less energy, fix cold and are widely used. Minimum steeping 1 hr, leave overnight for stronger colour. In the washing machine at 40 degrees, home dying is considered of little environmental impact in comparison with industry, but this is the subjective opinion of my advisor. (source Kemtex dyes telephone conversation March 2007))The effluent goes into the ‘foul drain’
as effluent, and is dealt with by local sewage treatment plants along with all domestic effluent which would contain chemical residues from domestic cleaning products too. The onus is on the sewage treatment plants to filter out and dispose of these chemicals.
Reactive dyes for cottonReactive dyes utilise a coloured
organic molecule that is capable of directly reacting with the fibre substrate. The bonds at a molecular level are so good, that they are the most permanent dyes for
natural fibres. "Cold" reactive dyes, such as Procion MX, Cibacron F, and Drimarene K, are very easy to use because the dye can be applied at room temperature. Reactive dyes are by far the best choice for dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibres at home or in the art studio. <
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye> 7.5.07 [online}
What makes reactive dyes the best choice for environmentally friendly colouration of textiles is very little waste, and little need for energy as they work well as cold dyes. Kemtex have told me that uptake is at least 70%. Fibrecrafts (GEorge Weil) have strategies including dyeing in plastic bags which are even more economic.
Ready-madesAFL) components formally made for another use are used to make another product instead.
ReclamationThe active re-engagement with the system where items have been designated as waste. Applies to buildings which are being knocked down, land which has gone wild or become unusable. Bringing back to life that which has been disposed of. Redesign recognises reclamation in a design process where the waste materials are not processed but used directly.
RecoverRemaindered materials from a process which are returned into the process.
RecreateCustomisation and personalisation of existing objects. (redesign)
RecycledThis involves the reuse of the component materials in a product after its current
lifecycle has ended. Reasons for this include appreciation of value of the basic materials, prevention of waste and inherent problems with disposal. (ecodesign vol. V111 no 2 )-How can we achieve this? It must involve the creation of end-user markets. Until the public has an increased awareness and confidence in the quality of recycled products, the market for them will remain as it is. Labelling needs to be simplified to help the consumer.”
Re-cycling is often referred to by cutting edge thinkers (McD) as
downcycling, because it is part of the journey from production to disposal or
cradle to grave. (Defra) sees recycling as the whole process of collection, separation, processing and return to the economic mainstream as raw materials or finished goods.
Recyclable(defra) say that this is waste that can be readily used in a similar or altered form.
Recyclate(defra) “The raw material which will be processed into a recycled product”
Recycled content(defra) The amount of material within a product that is recycled.
Recycled FleeceRecycled
PET (Polyethylene Terephalate)
Recycled products(Defra) Products with some recycled content.
ReduceUsing less of everything to make a product: the materials, energy, use and transport. (AS) Multifunction often accompanies reduction as a design strategy. (Redesign)
RefurbishmentRegenerated cellulose fibres
Fibres made from cellulose and made into viscose, rayon or acetate. (ridgewell) and cupro (well dressed p 44) Techno textiles call it a ‘Natural Chemical” from a source such as wood pulp, chemically treated to create a new fibre.
Bamboo is a regenerated
cellulosic fibre too.
Regenerated FibresRefers to fibres which are protein or
cellulose based.
Viscose rayon is such a fibre.
(ridgewell)
Regiving(wik) Giving goods to others, charitable donations, a waste not want not mentality.
RehanceEco
screen printing.printing. tsdesigns.comRemanufacture(wik) A rather grey area legally. It means the refurbishment of an item to enable its continued use. How it is presented in the market place can contravene copyrights and patents if it is considered to have been reconstructed, but Ok if it has been repaired.
Selling an item declared as ‘used’ can get around need for warrenties. Redesign calls this re-making. It relates to items that have been designed for disassembly, so that they can be easy to re-use or
recycle at their end-of-life.
RemindObjects that remind you of something and which you want to cherish. Another strategy recognised by redesign, which also has resonance's with vintage and with revivalism in design movements. An important psychological imperative for any designer to understand is the reassurance that objects can evoke. This resonates with Jonathan Chapmans idea of
Emotionally durable design.design.Renewable resources Sustainable resources, repeatable materials which grow and can be replanted, animal fibres.
Renewable power(AFL) ‘electricity generated from products that convert the energy of sun, wind, water or geothermal heat from the earths crust.’
RepairTo mend rather than to throw away. Seen as uneconomic as often the cost of repair is greater than replacement. Insurance for white goods will often give promissory notes for replacement when items break down. Parts are expensive, or are not produced, storage costs are prohibitive and render repair and storage of parts uneconomical. Products are not designed to last. (AS)
RepurposedAnother word for
reuseResist dyeing Applying wax or starch to stop the dye entering the fabric - used for batik.
ResourceRedesign define this aspect of
environmental design as relating to designs which use renewable natural materials, managed to ensure a
sustainable supply. However, resources are materials, energy, and potentials. If the ‘source’ has to be sustainable (ie constantly renewing, constantly reavailable) to warrant being called a resource, then a complete
cradle to cradle cycle involving technical nutrients could also qualify. Also transition sources such as landfill, and
recycling centres could provide finite opportunities for repeat visits to support design activity and productive use.
RespondA major part of the shift to environmental design is a change in the philosophy of objects, and products. It is less important for objects to ‘signify’ in isolation. Redesign say that ‘sociable designs invite interaction and friendliness’
RettingThe process of rotting away the vegetable matter from a bast plant stem to leave the fibrous core, from which thread can be spun. Traditionally retting would occur by tying bunches of stems together, leaving them in a stream or on snow, over a period of time. Industrially, this can occur in retting vats.
Reuse(wik) Using an item more than once, either the same use (e.g. refillable bottles) or another function (e.g. polishing cloths from old tee-shirts) Redesign extend the idea to creative use of ready made second hand objects and components too.