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Jun 23 2009, 5:43 AM EDT (current) anniesherburne 19 words added
Nov 4 2007, 9:30 AM EST anniesherburne 30 words added

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Indigo

The natural dye which is used to achieve blue. The dyebath has an agent added to remove the oxygen. this can be lye (caustic soda) or fermented urine. Yeast is an environmentally friendly, but unreliable method of removing oxygen too. The dye is dissolved, the fabric is added to the greeny yellow water and boiled. When removed the fabric turns blue as the dyestuff is affected by oxygen. Natural fibres with hollow cores are best for this as the dye is held inside the fibre. Indigo does contain mutegens which deplete genetic diversity if grown in a monoculture. Growing it in millions of acres to satisfy the demand for blue jeans can prevent use of that land for food production.
Master dyer Debbie Crum suggests this explanation: The indigotin (blue pigment) is dissolved in the alkaline solution (lye) and thiourea dioxide or sodium hydrosulphite is added to reduce the oxygen. These are both chemicals that are poisonous. thiourea is less so, but has a reasonable probability of being carcenegenic.

Indigen

The active ingredient in indigo dye, found in various plants including woad, which is indigenous to the british isles.

Industrial Symbiosis

Companies from all business sectors improve cross industry resource efficiency
through the commercial trade of materials, energy and water and by sharing
assets, logistics and expertise. It engages traditionally separate industries and
other organisations in a collective approach to competitive advantage involving
physical exchange of materials, energy, water and/or by-products together with the shared use of assets, logistics and expertise. www.nisp.org.uk
Information / inspiration web based eco-tool for designers.

www.informationinspiration.org.uk

Ingeo

( www.ingeofibers.com) Polylactic Acid (PLA) made from lactic acid made from dextrose by fermentation. Dextrose is made from starch, starch is made from carbondioxide and water. The Sustainable source is corn, can also be sugar beet.
It is a fast growing annual crop. Makes rigid plastic or clear shrink wrap for all forms of packaging. Makes silk or linen type fabrics, usable for fashion and sportswear and Underwear. It wicks (directs) perspiration away from the body and dries quickly.

Nonwovens make geo-textiles and hygiene products, including nappies. Also fibre filling, carpet yarns and other household and industrial fabrics. All fully and easily biodegradable and can be recycled if required. In discussion with Dr R Blackburn- Corn production in the US is GM. Ingeo doesn’t have to be GGM, but there is currently (2007) an 8% glut of corn so current Ingeo production is from industrial waste. Crops could be grown in Europe or Asia. There is little waste, the stems can be used for sugar or energy , making them into biofuels. Current factories being built to process ingeo also use wind and hydrothermals to stabilise and sustain energy and over time will even sequester CO2 from the atmosphere.

Innovative technologies

Including seamless garments which are stitch free welded seams using ultrasonic heating, high frequency radiation or bonded adhesive films. Reductions in waste, energy, time, quality checks and noise, but lose of jobs.

Computer Aided Design which enables seamless circular knitting allows smaller
batches, cheaper and more flexible production. (well dressed? p 33) Designs can be digitally communicated to multiple locations according to demand.

Mass customisation is also possible with CAD. 3D simulations created by scanning individual customers create a 2D pattern to make a ‘bespoke’ garment.

Insecticides

There are 2 main groups: Chlorinated hydrocarbons and organic phosphorus. There are also systemic insecticides (Carson R Silent spring p 46. pub penguin reprint 1972)

Integrated Pest management

Strategies reduce, but do not eradicate the reliance on pesticides. IPM emphasises the growth of healthy crops and encourages natural pest control systems. Actions commonly considered include; encouraging wild bird species which act as predators to the cotton pest populations, rotation of crops with wheat, pulses and legumes which don't encourage the cotton pests, and break up thier lifecyle. Cultivating refuge crops which give a habitat to beneficial animal species, taking local ecology into account when selecting cotton varieties, planting border crops such as sorghum, and maize around cotton fields as a natural barrier and to mask smells of cotton crops, co-planting with soy and castor to encourage beneficial species into the fields, planting trap crops around the field such as sunflowers and marigold to attract the cotton pests away from the crop, Tolerating crop damage while beneficial species establish themselves, using chemical pheremones to discourage cotton pests, only using narrow spectrum pesticides which do not harm the good species. (The deadly chemicals in cotton, PAN UK website) can’t encourage.

Intelligent design

Total awareness of inputs and outputs of products, services and systems, responsive to new information. Putting that new information into practise. ( www.greenblue.org )

Intelligent Products System

Authored by Michael Braungart and Justus Engelfried in 1993. This is the precursor to much of Braungarts more recent work, including Cradle to Cradle. This is a system for transforming the current expensive global waste management regime to an economically and environmentally sustainable system of intelligent products with 3 categories, consumable with no harm accruing from subsequent disposal and complete biodegradability, product of service and unmarketable

An "Intelligent Products System" develops consumption and service products which encourage elimination of waste, and maximise use of recyclable and biodegradable materials. One effect of the Intelligent Products System is that responsibility along with financial incentives for reduction and maintenance of dangerous waste are transferred from the end user to the producer, but also provide the producer with a reasonable economic framework to work with. Communities are left only with responsibility for biodegradable Consumption products. This division of responsibilities helps to solve the current intractable problem of mixing industrial and biodegradable wastes, which creates much of the skyrocketing costs for waste management today.

< www.epea.com/cradle_methodology > 7.5.07 [online]

Interface

Company which operates takeback and recycles its contract nylon and polyester carpet tiles.

IMO (Institute for Market Ecology)

IMO is the most reliable world-wide ecological inspection and certification organisation for textiles. It began in 1992. Dealing with the whole textile chain: raw material, yarn production, fabric production, confection/garment
manufacturing. Some of the most important organic textile standard organisations (such as IVN, OTA, Soil Association and Demeter) value the high quality of IMO textile auditing and have approved IMO as inspection (and certification) body for their schemes. ( www.imo.ch)

ISO (International Organisation for Standardisation)

Producers can apply to the ISO for certification that their product has achieved an acceptable standard. They receive an ISO number. Future areas that will be included in the standards are the environment, service, security and management. < www.iso.ch > 7.5.07

[online]